Produce, herbs give breads fall flavor

An invigorating chill cooled the air recently, and since I was hosting an out-of-town relative, I decided to warm up the kitchen a bit with an evocative hot bread or two. Time passes, memories fade, but traditions hold.

"How about some hot corn fritters?" my cousin Pat asked, as I stood remembering the delectable biscuits, muffins, fritters, pancakes, waffles, crunchy cheese straws and aromatic quick breads of our youth.

"Coming up," was my eager response, chuckling at how people who don't cook a lick often come up with the best food ideas.

I did have everything I needed at hand: The fall corn supply is still in bumper supply. Supermarkets and farmers markets are gleaming now with locally grown apples, pears, zucchini and a potpourri of squash, all of which add a world of flavor and textures to hot breads and fritters.

And I keep on hand several jars and bottles of honey, molasses, maple syrup and fancy crystallized sugar, plus unbleached white flour, whole wheat flour, and of course, cornmeal, which is de rigueur in my kitchen.

I also have jars and canisters of spices and seeds from around the world, such as cumin, coriander, cardamom, caraway and fennel, plus cloves, allspice berries and cinnamon sticks, all of which add a bracing flavor and aroma when crushed and stirred into the flour batter.

Fresh herbs such as dill, basil, rosemary, oregano and thyme also boost flavor. This time of year I dry and hang the herbs in my kitchen, an aromatic pinch always at the ready as the long chilling days set in, savored for both flavor and good health.

Often though, as if gilding the lily with nutrients, I lace these old down-home batters with a handful of chopped nuts such as pecans, walnuts, almonds or pistachio, or sesame seeds.

In minutes I was stirring together that bowl of corn fritter batter, listening to my cousin, a nutritionist, who wondered out loud why anybody bought these kind of warming breads and fritters when they are so quick and easy to make.

"Good for you, too," she noted.

I smiled, remembering there is nothing quite like family and good home-cooked food.

Joyce White is the author of "Brown Sugar" and "Soul Food." Reach her at jwhitesoul@aol.com.