Distilling the seasons

The jar of dark brown liquid seemed impossibly mysterious. Every few days, my mother would pull it from its dank corner under the kitchen sink, swirl it a few times, then tuck it back in among the Brillo pads and dish soap.

She was among the thrifty housewives in the 1960s making Under the Sink Kahlúa after becoming entranced with this new export from Mexico, but finding its price too dear. Kahlúa was becoming the after-dinner drink of the moment, whether served on the rocks, spiking coffee or -- as was my mother's goal for the holidays -- in liqueur glasses over which she would float a pristine skim of cream.

Forty years later, I'm doing the same thing, although for slightly different reasons. Homemade liqueurs are a natural extension of the artisan movement of beginning "from scratch," and offer the opportunity to develop your own distinctive blend.

Take Drambuie, for instance. The ingredients in this herbal, honeyed Scotch whiskey are, natch, cloaked in corporate secrecy. The official website speculates that the original recipe "must have" included cloves and notes that many "are convinced" that saffron was a main ingredient. So, perhaps, are these red herrings? A popular homemade recipe for Drambuie calls for fennel, angelica root and lemon zest, although some use rosemary.

The fun, however, begins in choosing a variety of honey to stir into the alcohol base. Consider the single-source honeys from homegrown businesses. Buckwheat or clover? Basswood or marsh flower? One purple loosestrife honey already has a faint hint of fennel.

A choice for the connoisseur

The whiskey base could be from malted barley, rye, wheat or corn. In "Classic Liqueurs: The Art of Making and Cooking With Liqueurs" (Sibyl, $10.95), authors Cheryl Long and Heather Kibbey say that it's not necessary to use top-quality alcohol, but it should be "pleasing to your taste."

If authenticity is the goal, which is logical for many first batches, use the same alcohol as in the commercial brand. Later, you might experiment with different grain bases, or boost a particular flavoring agent to create your own blend.

Recipes for Kahlúa, a coffee-flavored liqueur with a hint of chocolate, usually call for a mix of vodka and brandy, along with instant coffee powder, vanilla bean and chocolate extract. The amount of sugar syrup probably is what varies most among many liqueur recipes, depending upon whether its inventor has a sweet tooth or favors a less sugary sip. As one joke goes about drinking Kahlúa, you'll never get intoxicated because you'll get a toothache first.

This is a great time of year for mixing fruit-based liqueurs because of the fresh fruit available barely a day from the fields or orchards. Raspberries, pears, apples, peaches and more will result in shimmering holiday drinks or gifts.

But you have to start soon. Most liqueurs take at least several weeks -- and some take several months -- to become drinkable. Most improve with aging. There are many how-to books available. Look for ones that offer detailed information about equipment -- glass containers are essential -- and the filtering process.

The final results may not be identical to what the professional distillers produce. But they may be good enough -- and perhaps even more to your liking.

Kim Ode • 612-673-7185