Tomatoes, plump and heavy with juice, in late June in Minnesota?

Rick Nelson, Star Tribune

Heirloom tomatoes at the Real Foods stand

By Rick Nelson, Star Tribune

Last update: July 1, 2009 - 11:26 AM

When I saw the gnarled, cat-faced heirloom tomatoes ($4.99 per pound) lined up in rows at the Real Foods stand, I quickly consulted my internal calendar. Tomatoes, plump and heavy with juice, in late June in Minnesota? Huh?

Turns out the Bauman family starts cultivating tomatoes in mid-April under the shelter of a roof -- a "high tunnel" is how David Bauman described the structure -- on their organic farm near Wausau, Wis., skipping the hydroponic route and planting them directly in soil. The family raises roughly 30 varieties, from familiar ruby-red beefsteaks to a gaggle of variegated heirlooms that beautifully jumble the color spectrum.

I watched as noon-hour shoppers stopped dead in their tracks and asked David and his brother Titus if they were selling "real" tomatoes.

"We hear that a lot," said David. "They may be covered, but they have as much flavor as you'll find in a tomato in the middle of summer."

You know what? He was absolutely right. BLTs, here I come.

RICK NELSON

Real Foods, Minneapolis Farmers Market, Thursday (6 a.m. to 6 p.m.) on Nicollet Mall at 6th St., and Saturday (6 a.m. to 1 p.m.) at 312 E. Lyndale Av. N., 612-333-1718, www.mplsfarmersmarket.com.

For heirloom tomato recipes, see startribune.com/tabletalk