Talk about a crowd pleaser. The 2012 Lechuza Garnacha ($12) straddles the Old and New Worlds delightfully, delivering jamminess and earthiness from the massive layered nose to the dark fruit (blueberries and blackberries) and lively spiciness through the hearty finish. It's culled from some seriously old high-elevation (1,300 to 2,600 feet) vines in northeastern Spain's Aragon region. With something for everyone's palate, this is a great party wine (especially a pizza party), but it also is well-suited for grilled burgers and brats and, of course, tapas and paella.

Available at the Wine Shop, Tournament, Thomas, North Loop, Stinson, 1010 Washington and others.

BILL WARD