Restaurant review: At Freehouse, beer and beyond

  • Updated: April 2, 2014 - 3:44 PM

At Freehouse, the Blue Plate Restaurant Co. gets into the brewing business.

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“I love sitting in here,” said my friend, and I had to agree. We were having lunch at Freehouse, the North Loop newcomer — and most ambitious project, by far — from the Blue Plate Restaurant Co., the growth-minded dynamos behind the Edina Grill, the Lowry, 3 Squares and other popular (and populist) destinations.

Seriously, what a great room. It inhabits the massive loading dock of a historic biscuit bakery, and its voluminous levels of exposed brick and raw concrete are a loft-dweller’s dream. Arranged in gently cascading tiers, the bar and dining rooms capitalize, like all get-out, on the show-and-tell side of the contemporary dining-out experience.

And not just people-watching. In keeping with the building’s industrial past, a design team from the Minneapolis office of Gensler — led by Kate Levine, Betsy Vohs and Courtney Armstrong — has treated the fascinating mechanics of beer-making as a three-dimensional storyboard.

The trio didn’t forget their sense of humor. Why not approach the challenge of storing 72,000 pounds of malted barley outside the front door (and what is clearly destined to be a boffo patio) in a galvanized corrugated iron silo? It might be the city’s cleverest restaurant signage, and it gives the neighborhood a delightfully kitschy landmark, a 30-foot campanile of sorts, and a sly visual shout-out to the state’s agribusiness roots.

Or why not cover a ceiling in sawed-off beer kegs? Or christen that room after the Minnesota congressman most associated with Prohibition? Then anchor it with a 4- by 6-foot portrait of Rep. Volstead, his Puritanical image — right down to a prodigious mustache — rendered in beer bottle caps, a la Chuck Close? (the artist is Jason Hammond of Bolster, the Minneapolis branding firm also responsible for the restaurant’s snappy graphics, including some attention-grabbing images projected onto the walls).

There’s even a free parking lot, a major asset for anyone who has dared to immerse themselves in the frequently Olympian feat of seeking an open meter on the neighborhood’s streets. And for all of its big-box square footage, the dining room still manages to maintain relatively decent conversation-friendly acoustics, a minor miracle.

Think of it this way: If Freehouse were a person, and that person was prone to wearing message T-shirts, theirs would proudly read “Design Matters.”

Best with beer

Chef Breck Lawrence’s menu covers nearly as much acreage as the dining room.

The kitchen excels when it’s reacting to brewmaster Tim Piotrowski’s efforts. Burgers, for starters. One of the neighborhood’s better renditions is a luxe blend of brisket, chuck and sirloin that’s fortified with both duck fat and a generous dollop of butter infused with Piotrowski’s malty stout. The whole shebang is slipped into a sturdy house-baked, cornmeal-crusted English muffin, and the results more than merit its “$1,000 Burger” name. The actual price tag is $15, and well worth it.

A lean and juicy bison burger is wisely embellished with a punchy aioli and a sweet tomato jam. The turkey burger, brimming with zesty Thai-esque flavor accents, is fantastic. And Lawrence finds a way to enlist the brewhouse’s spent barley by mixing it with quinoa to form an offbeat-in-a-good-way veggie burger.

A number of communal dishes also impress. Spreads of dill-kissed and teasingly smoky trout, or cool shrimp in sour cream, or fat-laced pork, are all dressed up and ready for a photo shoot. Are they scrupulous renditions of the genre? No. But they satisfy, and props to their crispy lavash or a slightly nutty whole-wheat bread, which is prepared using more of the brewhouse’s spent barley.

I’ll never be able to consume another cheese curd without instinctively wanting to reach for Freehouse’s quince jam. Trendy bone marrow makes an appearance, and while the oyster selection isn’t huge, they’re notably fresh and presented with care.

Up and down, and up

Salads — particularly a kale version of the Chinese chicken salad, and a twist on the ever-popular tuna-white-bean combo — are another plus, although I never encountered one that wasn’t overdressed.

The main dishes are a bit of a minefield. Encountering an aversion to the same-old, same-old (rabbit getting the fried chicken treatment, a vegan/gluten-free pho, chile-boosted collard greens) is encouraging, but the outcomes frequently disappointed.

Salmon, pork and lamb all had their issues. A lobster-loaded mac-and-cheese was an unpleasantly gloppy mess, and no self-respecting food truck would claim ownership of the greasy shrimp tacos.

Instead, steer toward the basics: slices of a cooked-to-order steak paired with Cheddar-filled pierogies and a dash of fiery horseradish, crispy fried cod with thick-cut fries and a springy mash of peas and mint, a fine plate of rotisserie chicken and mashed potatoes.

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  • If you go to Freehouse

    Wednesday April 2, 2014

    freehouse ⋆⋆www.freehousempls.com • 612-339-7011Location 701 Washington Av. N., Mpls.Hours 6:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. dailyPrice ranges Starters $5-$14, salads...

  • The Volstead Lounge features a bottle-cap portrait of the late Rep. Andrew Volstead from Minnesota (author of the Prohibition Act of 1919) and beer keg lights.

  • Chef Breck Lawrence

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