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Andrus and Ackerman have reconfigured the footprint of a former free-standing dry cleaner to allow maximum curiosity-seeking peeks into the kitchen while emphasizing cheery, vintage touches. There’s such a hospitable vibe that it’s a shame that there’s room for only 10 dine-in seats.
At the counter, supply doesn’t always keep pace with demand, and even when it does, the selection can feel a bit thin, although the assortment seems to grow with each passing week.
Those on the lookout for minor flaws can find them. You know, a too-stiff buttercream icing, an overbaked thumbprint cookie, a dry and uncharacteristically dull coffee cake.
A prime example involves one of the bakery’s signature items. It’s a dream of a butterscotch pie — brown butter ranks high among Andrus’ favorite flavors — that’s basically a graham-cracker crust filled with that old-fashioned custard and crowned with swirls of scorched meringue (“burnt marshmallows, the best smell in the world,” said Andrus with a laugh).
That the custard doesn’t always set properly is, to me anyway, more endearing than eyebrow-raising, a demonstration of Andrus’ all-in commitment to every dimension of the home-baking equation. After all, who among us hasn’t been thwarted by a pie-making mishap?
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