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Continued: Honey and Rye Bakehouse: A 'honey' of a bakery

  • Article by: RICK NELSON , Star Tribune
  • Last update: June 16, 2014 - 12:59 PM

Complaints? Sure.

Andrus and Ackerman have reconfigured the footprint of a former free-standing dry cleaner to allow maximum curiosity-seeking peeks into the kitchen while emphasizing cheery, vintage touches. There’s such a hospitable vibe that it’s a shame that there’s room for only 10 dine-in seats.

At the counter, supply doesn’t always keep pace with demand, and even when it does, the selection can feel a bit thin, although the assortment seems to grow with each passing week.

Those on the lookout for minor flaws can find them. You know, a too-stiff buttercream icing, an overbaked thumbprint cookie, a dry and uncharacteristically dull coffee cake.

A prime example involves one of the bakery’s signature items. It’s a dream of a butterscotch pie — brown butter ranks high among Andrus’ favorite flavors — that’s basically a graham-cracker crust filled with that old-fashioned custard and crowned with swirls of scorched meringue (“burnt marshmallows, the best smell in the world,” said Andrus with a laugh).

That the custard doesn’t always set properly is, to me anyway, more endearing than eyebrow-raising, a demonstration of Andrus’ all-in commitment to every dimension of the home-baking equation. After all, who among us hasn’t been thwarted by a pie-making mishap?

 

Follow Rick Nelson on Twitter: @RickNelsonStrib











 

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  • Honey and Rye Bakehouse is a new St. Louis Park purveyor of breads and sweets.

  • Coconut-chocolate cream pie.

  • Co-owner Anne Andrus, on cookie dough duty.

  • Honey and Rye Bakehouse ⋆⋆1/2

    www.honey-and-rye.com • 612-844-2555

    Location: 4501 Excelsior Blvd., St. Louis Park

    Hours: 7 a.m.-6 p.m. Tue.-Fri., 8 a.m.-4 p.m. Sat., 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Sun.

    Price ranges: With the exception of whole pies and cakes, prices rarely exceed $7.

    Beverages: Coffee, tea and soft drinks.

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