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Continued: Borough: The Twin Cities' most exciting new restaurant

  • Article by: RICK NELSON , Star Tribune
  • Last update: March 21, 2013 - 2:27 PM

Pastry chef Lashaw Castellano’s eye-catching desserts land squarely in the deconstructionist mode. Salvador Dali himself could have shattered and reassembled the flourless chocolate cake’s clever clashing-yet-complementary tangy beet ice cream and tart yuzu foam.

A carrot cake, decorated with a carrot reduction, carrot powder and parchment-thin dehydrated carrot slices, could have been devised in a food-science laboratory. Best was the least manipulated: delicate brioche doughnut holes, with the flavors of bacon, cinnamon and macadamia nut swirling on the plate.

Like his comrades in the kitchen, bartender Jesse Held approaches his nuanced work with both an admirable meticulousness and a rousing sense of fun.

There were missteps. Sometimes the problem was intrinsic (a too-sweet combination of scallops, par­snips and maple, or a goes-nowhere hearts of palm salad), while on other occasions, enthusiastic seasoning was the issue (someone at the stove clearly loves their salt). Pacing was oddly erratic at times, and basics (lukewarm food that should have been hot, an undercooked vegetable) were botched. Here’s hoping for a practice-makes-perfect scenario.

Designed by ESG, the Minneapolis architectural firm, the L-shaped space boasts all the elements that ignite loft envy: big windows, exposed brick and raw concrete.

Like nearly everything about Borough, it’s expertly done, and on my last visit, seated at the lively, marble-topped kitchen counter, I was compelled to offer a silent prayer of gratitude. And why not? It’s enterprises like Borough that are making the Twin Cities a major American dining destination. Amen to that.

 

Follow Rick Nelson on Twitter: @RickNelsonStrib

 









 

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  • Photo gallery: Restaurant review: Borough

    Wednesday March 20, 2013

    Rick Nelson declares it the The Twin Cities most exciting new restaurant.

  • Borough

  • Borough

  • Borough ⋆⋆⋆1/2

    Location: 730 Washington Av. N., Mpls. Valet parking $7, nearby ramp parking.

    Hours: Kitchen open 5 p.m.-midnight daily, bar open 5 p.m.-2 a.m. daily.

    Atmosphere and service:

    Historic warehouse loft chic, although has the subway tile phenomenon reached post-peak status? Loud but not conversation-stopping when full. Service frequently but not routinely polished and informative.

    Price ranges: Small plates $7-$14, medium plates $11-$18, large plates $19-$25, desserts $7.

    Recommended dishes:

    Foie gras, pork belly, pasta, octopus, sturgeon, chicken, burger, fish and chips, cauliflower, New York strip.

    Wine list: Slim international selection that stands out for smart choices and reasonable prices. Excellent craft beer roster, expert cocktails.

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