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Pastry chef Lashaw Castellano’s eye-catching desserts land squarely in the deconstructionist mode. Salvador Dali himself could have shattered and reassembled the flourless chocolate cake’s clever clashing-yet-complementary tangy beet ice cream and tart yuzu foam.
A carrot cake, decorated with a carrot reduction, carrot powder and parchment-thin dehydrated carrot slices, could have been devised in a food-science laboratory. Best was the least manipulated: delicate brioche doughnut holes, with the flavors of bacon, cinnamon and macadamia nut swirling on the plate.
Like his comrades in the kitchen, bartender Jesse Held approaches his nuanced work with both an admirable meticulousness and a rousing sense of fun.
There were missteps. Sometimes the problem was intrinsic (a too-sweet combination of scallops, parsnips and maple, or a goes-nowhere hearts of palm salad), while on other occasions, enthusiastic seasoning was the issue (someone at the stove clearly loves their salt). Pacing was oddly erratic at times, and basics (lukewarm food that should have been hot, an undercooked vegetable) were botched. Here’s hoping for a practice-makes-perfect scenario.
Designed by ESG, the Minneapolis architectural firm, the L-shaped space boasts all the elements that ignite loft envy: big windows, exposed brick and raw concrete.
Like nearly everything about Borough, it’s expertly done, and on my last visit, seated at the lively, marble-topped kitchen counter, I was compelled to offer a silent prayer of gratitude. And why not? It’s enterprises like Borough that are making the Twin Cities a major American dining destination. Amen to that.
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