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Continued: Lynn on Bryant: A neighborhood gem of a restaurant

  • Article by: RICK NELSON , Star Tribune
  • Last update: February 14, 2013 - 3:01 PM

A final note

Oh, my gosh, how could I forget the doughnuts? There are plenty of reasons to make a habit out of the Lynn’s breakfast — the exquisite omelets, for starters — but if nothing else, there are the doughnuts. Let the fry babies among us extend our collective gratitude to Ireland for channeling his doughnut-obsessed teenage years into a level of craftsmanship that may be second to none in the Twin Cities.

Forget the gimmicks that are currently sweeping the genre, and revel in unadulterated, time-tested cake doughnut goodness. Picture this: a golden interior with a dense, moist crumb, enrobed by a gently crisp, never-greasy crust that twinkles with sugar, some of it caramelized into the acorn-brown surface. Such is the alchemy of apple cider, buttermilk (and flour, sugar, baking powder and soy oil) and skill.

Self-preservation is encouraging me to stop because, like so much about the Lynn, just thinking about those doughnuts is making me hungry.

 

Follow Rick Nelson on Twitter: @RickNelsonStrib




 

  • related content

  • The cafe area of Lynn on Bryant, the new restaurant helmed by chef/owner Peter Ireland.

  • the lynn on bryant ⋆⋆⋆1/2

    www.thelynnonbryant.com • 612-767-7797

    Location

    5003 Bryant Av. S., Mpls.

    Hours: 7 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun.-Mon., 7 a.m.-5 p.m. Tue., 7 a.m.-9 p.m. Wed.-Thu., 7 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat.

    service

    Uneven, swerving from solicitous and knowledgeable to largely absent and tortoise-paced.

    Price ranges

    Cafe: $11 and under at breakfast, $8-$15 at lunch and dinner. Dining room: appetizers $6-$12, entrees $19-$24, desserts $8.

    Recommended dishes

    Chicken, pork tenderloin, kañiwa-Swiss chard pie, salt cod fritters, house pâté, burger, omelets, scrambled eggs, doughnuts.

    Wine list

    Well-edited and sanely priced. Excellent coffee, from St. Paul’s Kopplin’s Coffee.

    Special menus

    Family-friendly kids’ menu.

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