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The anti-pancake crowd has plenty of other reasons to make a habit of either Colossal in the morning, namely the basic but well-composed breakfast sandwiches. Desserts rarely rise above so-so, and for a crew capable of producing a first-rate scone, the cinnamon rolls, those vital carb-loading breakfast building blocks, are curiously dull, their chief asset being their gi-hugic size.
But the Colossians are not without a knack for handling flour and butter, because the tender, knobbly buttermilk biscuits are first-rate, and the jewel of the restaurant’s small grab-and-go case is, without question, the lovingly made par-baked chicken pot pies. I’d pass them off as my own, but who am I kidding? There’s certainly no one in my circle of friends who would believe, even for a minute, that my comfort-food comfort level comes anywhere near such well-tended American classics.
As for dinner service at the Minneapolis Colossal, don’t hold your breath. “People do ask,” said Elizabeth Tinucci with a laugh. “I try to explain that we hardly have enough refrigerator space for our breakfast food.”
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★★½ out of 4 stars
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