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Continued: Thinking big comes naturally to the Colossal Cafe

  • Article by: RICK NELSON , Star Tribune
  • Last update: January 17, 2013 - 2:21 PM

The anti-pancake crowd has plenty of other reasons to make a habit of either Colossal in the morning, namely the basic but well-composed breakfast sandwiches. Desserts rarely rise above so-so, and for a crew capable of producing a first-rate scone, the cinnamon rolls, those vital carb-loading breakfast building blocks, are curiously dull, their chief asset being their gi-hugic size.

But the Colossians are not without a knack for handling flour and butter, because the tender, knobbly buttermilk biscuits are first-rate, and the jewel of the restaurant’s small grab-and-go case is, without question, the lovingly made par-baked chicken pot pies. I’d pass them off as my own, but who am I kidding? There’s certainly no one in my circle of friends who would believe, even for a minute, that my comfort-food comfort level comes anywhere near such well-tended American classics.

As for dinner service at the Minneapolis Colossal, don’t hold your breath. “People do ask,” said Elizabeth Tinucci with a laugh. “I try to explain that we hardly have enough refrigerator space for our breakfast food.”

 

Follow Rick Nelson on Twitter: @RickNelsonStrib


 

★★½ out of 4 stars
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  • Colossal Cafe in St. Paul

  • Dinner at the Colossal Cafe includes don’t-miss dishes along the lines of (from top to bottom) build-your-own shrimp tacos, a beautifully composed three-beet salad garnished with pistachios and mint-infused yogurt, and slices of grilled house-baked bread heaped high with a warm rosemary-scented three-bean salad.

  • Beet Salad.

  • Colossal Cafe ⋆⋆1/2

    www.colossalcafe.com

    651-797-4027

    Location: 2315 Como Av., St. Paul, 651-797-4027 (also 1839 E. 42nd St., Mpls., 612-729-2377)

    Hours: Breakfast and lunch 7 a.m.-3 p.m. Tue.-Sun., dinner 4:30-9 p.m. Weds.-Sat. (Minneapolis open 6 a.m.-3 p.m. Tue.-Sun.)

    Atmosphere and service: A cheery environment that fulfills its varied breakfast-lunch-dinner demands. Attentive and friendly service.

    Price ranges: Breakfast $4-$10, sandwiches $9-$12, dinner salads and plates-to-share $4-$15, entrees $12-$20.

    Recommended dishes: Pancakes, breakfast sandwiches, turkey sandwich, marinated pork sandwich, rosemary beans, lamb chops, pork spare ribs, roast chicken.

    Wine list: Covers basics and is refreshingly affordable; decent craft beer selection.

    Special menus: Five $4 kids’ selections.

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