ALL ABOUT CURRY

Last update: April 23, 2008 - 3:26 PM

ALL ABOUT CURRY

What is this thing we call curry?

To many Westerners, curry is a mix of spices -- tamarind, onion, coriander, fenugreek, chile pepper, turmeric, cumin, black pepper and mustard -- to season a stir-fry of sorts that packs a heated punch. Yet this spice mixture, not to mention the word itself, does not exist in India.

Raghavan Iyer defines a curry as "any dish that consists of meat, fish, poultry, legumes, vegetables or fruit, simmered in or covered with a sauce, gravy or other liquid that is redolent of spices and/or herbs."

In other words, curry is never something added to a dish, "it just is!" as he describes it.

The elements of curry are a blend of the five primary tastes: bitter, sour, salty, sweet and umami. Pungent is a frequent additional element, and, less often, astringent. Aromatic? Always.

So where did the confusion begin? It's impossible to say for sure, but many experts believe that British who were involved in the spice trade in the 1600s set out to replicate the spicing techniques of the foods they ate in India. There is a kari leaf (also called a curry leaf), similar to a bay leaf, that may have been the source of the name, although it has little to do with curries.

Iyer does include a recipe for English-style Madras Curry Powder for a few recipes in the book calling for this spice mix that dates from the 18th century.

But for the other 658 or so recipes, curry describes a range of sauces with a variety of bases -- tomato, coconut milk, vinegar, split peas, to name a few. So, how to approach these recipes that not only turn preconceived notions on their head, but also introduce a cornucopia of exotic ingredients?

As Iyer counsels: "With great joy."

KIM ODE

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