Perception is everything, Tiffany Tompkins acknowledged, even for those doing "good work."

"When most people hear 'Fair Trade,' they don't necessarily think quality," said Tompkins, president of Etica, a Twin Cities-based Fair Trade wine distributor, "and the wine business is tough. So it was essential that we have good wine.

"People might buy one bottle because it's for a good cause, but after that ..."

Tompkins, 31, knew when she co-founded Etica (the Spanish word for "ethics") that all the good intentions in the world wouldn't matter if she didn't have a tasty product. It's all well and good to be funneling extra money to peasant farmers, helping sustain local environments, yada yada yada. But the wines had to deliver, even in their consumer-friendly price range ($10 to $25).

In a word, or actually two, they do. Etica imports and distributes some decent-to-delightful bottlings from Argentina (Soluna and Viñedos de la Posada labels), Chile (Calesa) and South Africa (Goue Vallei), no mean feat in the latter case at this price point.

"Most people aren't fans of [the South African varietal] pinotage," said Tompkins, "so we wanted to make sure we found one that was actually good."

That kind of attention to detail, especially that most important detail, has helped make Etica the nation's largest importer of Fair Trade wines. Etica's wines are distributed throughout the Midwest, and Tompkins is working on expanding to the coasts.

More distribution means more money for the Third World growers, whose cooperatives get an extra 5 percent after the price for their grapes has been determined. More than 1.5 million farmers and laborers have benefited from the Fair Trade program.

The movement aims to help the laborers become self-sufficient stakeholders in their own organization by paying fair prices along with the extra 5 percent; it also advocates sustainable, environmentally friendly farming practices. In 2006, Fair Trade sales totaled $2.3 billion worldwide, a 41-percent increase from 2005. The primary goods are handicrafts, cocoa, bananas, sugar, honey, fresh fruit, cotton and sundry beverages.

"We were already getting Fair Trade coffee, tea and chocolate here, so it seemed like wines were a natural next step," said Tompkins, who has worked in Beijing for the World Trade Organization and London for the Fairtrade Foundation. While in London, she was working up the business plan for what became Etica.

In November 2006, Tompkins and Shannon Sandelands started Etica, importing and distributing eight wines. (Minnesota is one of the few states to allow a wine business to be both an importer and a distributor.) Once they found the wines, their company had to come up with brand names and design the labels.

Their first customers: the eco-centric Birchwood Café and the African American-owned Ken & Norm's Liquors in south Minneapolis. "Ken & Norm's liked the notion of wine from post-apartheid South Africa," said Tompkins. "They still sell more of our wines than anyone."

During the ensuing 18 months, Etica's distribution reach has expanded to dozens of stores and a like number of restaurants, from the obvious targets (Masa, Lucia's) to a few surprises (Murray's, the Big Bowl chain).

"At first the business plan was geared toward the organic niche," said Tompkins, "but it's really opened up."

And still is expanding. Tompkins is particularly excited about a new rosé from Chile. When will we be seeing it on the shelves?

"As soon as we can come up with a label."

Bill Ward • bill.ward@startribune.com Read Ward on Wine at www.startribune.com/blogs/wine.