Taste: Tackling fish

When it comes to buying fish, if you're not overwhelmed, you're not paying attention.

Gone are the days when freshness and price were all that mattered at the seafood counter. Now we're weighing bigger issues, from the health of ocean ecosystems to the way fishermen make their catch. We wring our hands about whether to buy farmed or wild salmon, imported mahi-mahi or local halibut. We remember doctor's orders about eating more heart-healthy fish oil -- but forget which type of tuna tested lowest for mercury in the latest health bulletin.

It's a wonder we don't all head straight for the hamburger.

But remember why we eat fish? It's delicious, and health professionals agree it's an important part of a healthful diet. Besides that, the dollars we spend on seafood make a difference: If we make good choices, we potentially can help U.S. fishermen, boost efforts to protect threatened species, even encourage habitat-friendly ways of catching fish worldwide.

Taking action is easier than you think. We've talked to some experts, sifted through the issues and identified a few fish you can bring home without guilt or questions. They're healthful, environmentally sound choices -- and we've even come up with recipes to make the cook look good.

TOP CHOICES FOR FISH

We love halibut and chinook salmon, but there are plenty of other fish in the sea. Get to know these species if you're looking for modest prices, maximum health benefits and high marks for sustainability.

Farmed tilapia

(U.S. or South American): Once obscure, tilapia is now America's fifth-most-popular seafood. The reasons are many: It's cheap, clean, green and, with proper cooking, tasty. Steer clear of Asian-grown product, known for mossy, muddy flavors.

Sardines

The sardine is an early summer fish that's oily (think omega-3s) and terrific paired with other gutsy flavors, such as vinegar, mustard, oregano and mint.

Troller-caught albacore

Grill-friendly young albacore (less than 15 pounds) caught offshore are packed with omega-3s, though pregnant women and young children should eat only moderate amounts because of mercury levels. They are caught from late June through October.

Lingcod

This firm, mild whitefish makes great fish and chips. Most is taken by hook-and-line, providing an eco-friendly livelihood for fishermen.

Wild black cod/sablefish

Not a cod at all, and a green alternative to threatened Chilean sea bass, this fish has mild, white meat and lots of omega-3s. For firm, flaky texture, rub on a miso marinade or a gravlax-style salt-and-sugar cure before cooking.

Wild-caught sockeye or pink salmon

These are easier on the wallet than chinook and less likely to accumulate pollutants than larger salmon species. (Note that salmon that originate in hatcheries but are caught in the wild are called "wild-caught," not wild.) Alaska's salmon fisheries get top marks from environmental organizations.