Breakthrough brunches

Brunch in Minneapolis. To some it's a weekly occurrence, to others it's tailgated to the word "Easter." It can mean a sprawling buffet, a fancy five-course feast or simply an amazing plate of pancakes. Whatever the definition, it's always delicious at these eight restaurants.

By Rick Nelson, Star Tribune

Last update: March 5, 2008 - 4:29 PM

NICOLLET ISLAND INN

Forget casual: Chef Erick Harcey treats his guests to an elegant five-course repast ($30 per person) that's peppered with imagination and grace, two traits rarely associated with brunch. Harcey also demonstrates a knack for sourcing exceptional local ingredients, whether he's presenting a lovely toss of roasted beets and snappy watercress, a crisp-skinned chicken breast with sweet roasted cipollini, banana pancakes swiped with a macadamia nut cream and drizzled in a rum-honey syrup or a light-handed bowl of house-made tagliatelle, asparagus, apricot and chard. The mimosas never stop, and the inn's Mississippi River views are a treat.

95 Merriam St., 612-331-1800, www.nicolletislandinn.com, 9:30 a.m. to 1:45 p.m. Sunday.

COSMOS

The posh contemporary setting has no local equal, chef Stephen Trojahn's three-course ($28) menu does the room proud and service is polished until it sparkles. South Beach dieters will be all over a Japanese-inspired option, which includes a beautiful piece of grilled salmon, miso soup, a poached egg, wilted spinach and pickled mushrooms.

601 1st Av. N., 612-677-1100, www.cosmosrestaurant.com, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday (a la carte menu served 6:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.).

LUCIA'S RESTAURANT

It's hard to believe that Lucia Watson's cheery Uptown cafe is 23 years young. Her engaging staff really does brunch right. The menu changes weekly, but it always includes well-stuffed omelets, a beautiful salad -- where does Watson find such pristine produce in subzero Minnesota? -- as well as variations on eggs and pancakes or French toast. Do not pass up the pastry tray's incredible scones and muffins, even if you're planning a postbrunch pit stop at Watson's bakery next door.

1432 W. 31st St., 612-825-1572, www.lucias.com, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

NICK AND EDDIE

Love the prices: nothing over $9. Love the simplicity: a perfect spinach salad tossed with chicken, bits of butternut squash and a vibrant tarragon dressing; baked eggs with bits of ham, brioche and truffle oil; a scrambled egg platter; sausages with polenta. Love the room. And love, love, love the baked goods, including swoon-worthy twice-baked almond brioche and the best darned ginger cake ever, drizzled with tangy creme fraiche.

1612 Harmon Pl., 612-486-5800, www.nickandeddie.com, 9 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

RED STAG SUPPERCLUB

At his Northeast newbie, chef William Baskin puts out great-tasting twists on traditional a.m. fare (superb flax seed waffles, whole-wheat pancakes glistening with a praline butter, poached eggs finished with an herb hollandaise, a marvelous Minnesota-milled oatmeal) along with some welcome surprises, including perfectly smoked trout, creamy grits, a boffo lobster-egg salad sandwich and a long list of I-want-to-order-that cocktails, starting with "Wake-Up Beer," a glass of Guinness socked with a shot of espresso.

509 1st Av. NE., 612-767-7766, www.redstagsupperclub.com, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

20.21

For some, brunch isn't brunch unless it's a buffet, and Wolfgang Puck's Walker Art Center outpost does it better than most, boasting poached eggs over pastrami-laced hash, little smoked salmon pizzas, a chicken salad of the gods, made-to-order omelets, cute little fruit smoothies, well-made pastries and a champagne cocktail, all for $28 per person. A bonus: You can walk off your gluttony by exploring the museum's galleries.

1750 Hennepin Av. S., 612-253-3410, www.wolfgangpuck.com, 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Sunday.

SPOONRIVER

The minimalist dining room, all glass and sunshine, could double as a showroom for the loft-ey neighborhood. The organic-minded menu also has style. Don't miss the superb buckwheat crêpes filled with cool smoked salmon and dill-flecked crème fraîche, the crispy chicken quesadillas topped with a sweet-tart cranberry coulis, the well-composed charcuterie plate, the juicy lamb burger and pastry chef Carrie Summer's exceptional sweets. Oh, and the bar pours a fabulous passion fruit Bellini.

750 S. 2nd St., 612-436-2236, www.spoonriverrestaurant.com, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

GRAND CAFE

There's so much to like at this laid-back neighborhood gem, especially the big blueberry-pocked buttermilk flapjacks, the rib-sticking corned beef hash and the this-could-feed-two-people huevos rancheros platter. The coffee cake, still warm from the oven, is also a winner.

3804 Grand Av. S., 612-822-8260, www.grandcafempls.com, 8 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.