Versatile dukkah adds spice to the mix

Egyptian flavors, nuts and seeds are appetizing combo.

By ANDREW DAVID BAKER, Special to the Star Tribune

Last update: January 30, 2008 - 3:48 PM

I collect many ingredients to use in my kitchen, but some of the most interesting are found in the assortment of spice mixtures crowding my pantry shelves. Some of the mixtures come from friends, others from my own shopping.

Whenever I am in a new grocery store or an international market, I check out the spice section. There, I find packets, jars and boxes of seasonings that are unfamiliar. I don't always know what to do with them -- and sometimes that doesn't matter. Part of the fun comes from finding new ways to use the intriguing flavors in everyday cooking.

So I was thrilled when my friend Catherine Evans introduced me to dukkah, a spice mixture from Egypt. Evans, who taught cooking classes for children at the Smithsonian Institution, is one of the most intuitive cooks I know. At an event for food writers, which happened to coincide with her birthday, she led a group of us as we prepared a menu of her favorite foods -- one of which was dukkah, something she had recently read about and wanted to try. She mixed together nuts and spices, toasted them and sprinkled them over crudités for an appetizer that was colorful, textural and flavorful.

The ingredients for dukkah vary from cook to cook, but typically include nuts, seeds, spices, herbs and salt. The mixture can be left whole after toasting, but it is traditional to grind it to a powder. Experiment with a mortar and pestle, blender or spice grinder to achieve a texture that suits you. A recipe for a more traditional dukkah follows, as well as an innovative variation designed by Evans.

Dukkah can be used in many ways. Rub it onto meats before roasting or grilling -- it is delicious on lamb chops. Use it to top hummus, steamed rice or roasted vegetables. Or serve a dish of dukkah alongside wedges of warm pita bread and olive oil. Dip the bread in the oil and then in the dukkah for an authentic North African appetizer.

Andrew David Baker is an Edina writer.