Liquid Assets: Warehouse District wine bars worth a date

By Bill Ward, Star Tribune

Last update: January 18, 2008 - 11:16 AM

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WINE OF THE WEEK

Michel Torino "Don David" Cafayate Valley Torrontés Reserve 2006

The experience: Flat-out delicious. It's pricey for a torrontés ($16-$18), but about as good as white wine gets at that price point. Rich and spicy with just-ripe-enough tangerine, pineapple and peach notes, this aromatic juice has a fresh, clean finish. This spot-on expression exemplifies how a Spanish grape is becoming Argentina's signature white varietal.

The setting: An apt fit with rich seafood (crab cakes, salmon) or spicy Asian dishes, this also is a dandy option for picnic or patio quaffing -- or evoking sweet dreams of picnic/patio days to come.

The back story: Located near Bolivia, the Don David vineyards are among the world's "highest" (at 5,500-plus feet) and "brightest" (about 330 days of sunshine a year).

BILL WARD

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The Warehouse District's two wine bars -- hip veteran Bev's and artsy newbie Toast -- both boast what my wife likes to call "complimentary lighting." In other words, the bars pull off the rare feat of being urbane and romantic, great date destinations.

That's not all the two venues share. Each has a nosh-heavy, pocketbook-friendly menu, with nothing over 10 bucks. There are partial views of the Minneapolis skyline at each, and the closest parking is around the corner.

The only real difference is in terms of selection, with Toast offering decidedly more food and wine options. A closer look at the downtown duo:

Bev's Wine Bar

The wines: Six whites and seven reds by the glass, plus one sparkling wine and 15 more selections by the bottle. It's a deftly chosen, food-friendly list, with half of the whites hailing from Italy. There's also a decent beer selection.

The grub: Nice cheeses and wine-friendly (i.e., salty and chewy) bread anchor the handful of items available. It's a bar-like menu in both its brevity and the fact that the kitchen stays open late (until 11 p.m.).

The vibe: Tall, dark and handsome, with very high ceilings, soft-colored walls, light wood floors and nice use of candles. It's easy to see why couples of all ages flock here.

The vitals: 250 3rd Av. N., Mpls., 612-337-0102.

Toast Wine Bar & Cafe

The wines: One flight, 21 wines by the glass, including a couple of sweet surprises: a cava rosé and a sake in an adorable bottle. There are dozens of full bottles available, and the focus is on smaller wineries and a range of varietals.

The grub: Ideal for sampling and sharing, the offerings include six cheeses, a dozen crostini toppings and seven cracker-crusted pizzas. A lighthearted, eat-drink-and-make-merry tone pervades the menu, which proffers "Just some good olives" and warrants major kudos for this request: "Please no cell phones, thank you!"

The vibe: Short, dark and handsome, with low ceilings, soft lighting and fascinating art. The classy jazz (Thelonious Monk and Oscar Peterson on my visit) and below-street-level location provide a Greenwich Village-like air.

The vitals: 415 N. 1st St., Mpls., 612-333-4305.

Bill Ward has yet to meet a grape he doesn't like. Read his blog at www.startribune.com/blogs/wine.

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