WINE
French winemakers got a multi-century start on Californians, and as much ground as the new kids have gained, the Old World folks still have some advantages. Among them: knowing how much semillon to mix in with their sauvignon blancs. Exhibit A: the Chateau Les Tuileries Bordeaux Blanc ($15), a fresh, vibrant white whose gorgeous citrus and tropical-fruit flavors (that's the sauv blanc) are carried forward by spot-on texture and structure from the semillon. Yum. Try it with fish tacos or grilled pizza with fresh herbs and whatever else you wanna toss on there.
BILL WARD
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