Don't try to tell the folks Down Under that a rising tide lifts all boats.

Yellow Tail might have been the biggest wine-brand success story of the Aughts. Not only did Yellow Tail supplant Rosemount and Jacob's Creek in the cut-rate field, but it also left American consumers convinced that shiraz should taste like -- and be no more expensive than -- that wine with the cute kangaroo label.

But a wave of other forces helped swamp the Aussie wine industry, which has seen exports fall in value for three straight years: a backlash against "critter" labels, the fall of other currencies against the Australian dollar, an extended drought and major wildfires.

The biggest problem was an over-reliance on an over-ripe, over-oaked winemaking style, especially with the continent's signature grape, shiraz. "The U.S. is bored with Australian shiraz, which is fair enough, but Australian shiraz is not what the U.S. thinks it is," said Shae Cooney of importer Old Bridge Cellars. "The majority of shirazes exported in the last decade have been crafted for a particular palate, and are a poor reflection of the diversity of styles enjoyed by Australians at home."

So the Aussies are undergoing what winemaker Chris Ringland calls "a serious recalibration": pulling back on the oak (Ringland's "Bitch," which is way more than a semi-cute name, sees no wood) and eschewing bulk wines in favor of nailing varietals where they work best.

"Have you ever had a bad shiraz from the Barossa Valley?" winemaker Alan Heath said. "And when was the last time you had a good shiraz from South Eastern Australia?

"You will see more single-region wines, Barossa/shiraz, Limestone Coast/cab, and Claire Valley/riesling. We're just doing it better from lower cropping vineyards with regional/varietal compatibility," said Heath.

And, as Ringland notes, "the people who will survive are the ones who are in the business for the right reason." That's why the best approach in the current market is to be focused less on grapes and more on brands, at least at the lower and medium price points.

For example, three of my favorite wineries make tasty white blends that combine sweet and dry grapes: Peter Lehmann "Layers" ($16), St. Hallett "Poacher's Blend" ($13) and d'Arenberg "The Stump Jump" ($10). In the $10 range, two shirazes, Heath's Lizard Flat and (yes) the Yellow Tail Reserve, provide nice value. Yalumba's viognier is almost $20 (and exemplary), but the winery has other dandy wines at lower tariffs.

Moving up the price scale, look for offerings from Two Hands (love the Gnarly Dudes), Kaesler, John Duval and Mitolo for good quality-price ratios.

Brands like that could have the folks from Down Under finally looking up.

Bill Ward • bill.ward@startribune.com