Taste: Harvest feast

John Croft, Star Tribune

wild rice

Side dishes from the heartland bring the farm to the dinner table.

By Beth Dooley, Special to the Star Tribune

Last update: November 14, 2007 - 3:48 PM

Thanksgiving may be turkey day, but side dishes make the meal. Loading our plates with potatoes, squash, wild rice and cranberries, we feast on the heartland's bounty and variety. Our farmers celebrate their "New Year," ringing out the old season, welcoming the new.

"It's very satisfying to sit down with our family and have the majority of the food from our collective labor," said Atina Diffley, of Gardens of Eagan, the region's largest, oldest organic vegetable farm supplying natural food co-ops and stores.

What do those who grow and know our food best cook for this day?

Surprisingly, kale was high on most lists. "We always have a big bowl of kale," along with baked squash, said Diffley. The endless varieties -- acorn, red kruri, delicata -- also figure their way into pies, muffins and cakes.

Wild rice plays in pilaf and stuffing; there's applesauce scented with vanilla and nutmeg; beets tossed with balsamic vinegar, and, another surprise, baked beans. The Scandinavian classic is a favorite of Greg Reynolds of Riverbend Farm in Delano, who uses the cranberry beans he grows and dries for use in restaurants, such as Lucia's, as well as for sale to local stores.

The recipes here are as eclectic and interesting as those who work the land and deal with harsh, unpredictable weather and a fickle marketplace. All rely on fresh and local ingredients, some from the field, others in storage or frozen or canned. Given our region's wonderful butter, cheese, cream, milk, eggs, honey, maple syrup, nuts and dried herbs, it's easy to eat close to home.

Minneapolis and St. Paul farmers markets remain open for shopping on weekends (but not on Thanksgiving Day). Although our neighborhood farmers markets, vegetable stands and CSAs (community-supported agriculture farms) have closed, our natural-food co-ops and many supermarkets feature locally grown food, noted with stickers and signs.

The dishes here tote easily to another's table and they may be made ahead. Seasonal and local, they complement one another, although the seasonings come from around the world. What grows together goes together.

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