Another Life Time for David Fhima
Meet David Fhima, the Weeble of the local restaurant world: He wobbles, but he doesn't fall down. And talk about wobbles. His Mpls. Cafe, Louis XIII and Fhima's (as well as a planned Latin restaurant-nightclub in downtown Minneapolis) are history, and his LoTo is under new management. But here comes the doesn't-fall-down part: That new management is Life Time Fitness, which embraced the chef-restaurateur when his future was looking particularly glum. Now Fhima and Life Time are partners in a new restaurant venture in the former Flagship Athletic Club, now Eden Prairie Life Time Athletic (755 Prairie Center Dr., Eden Prairie).
"I'm going to concentrate on taking care of people, and let Life Time manage the business, which is something they do very well," said Fhima. "The last three years have been humbling, but I'm proud to say that I'm not going anywhere. I'm keeping at it. I love food, and I love people, so where else do you go when you have those elements?"
If you're Fhima, and you're cooking for a hugely successful fitness outfit, the only direction you take is a healthy one. Fhima said that means -- to borrow from the Zagat shorthand -- "all-natural cooking, with no additives or preservatives," combined with "Mediterranean" flavor accents, "sushi," a "comfortably chic atmosphere," and "a long list of organic wines," said Fhima. "I just want to do a great mashed potato, a perfect roast chicken. I want to perfect the art of basics. If you think about it, that's how people eat on any given day anyway."
The yet-unnamed restaurant is being modeled as a template for dining outlets in Life Time facilities around the country. The opening is set for the second week of November, and the jury's out on whether non-Life Timers will be welcome.
"We haven't made that decision yet," said Fhima. "But I'm pushing for it to be open to the public, and I'm 99 percent certain that will happen."
The 128 Cafe (128 Cleveland Av. N., St. Paul) is coming back. This time around, Jill Wilson holds the ownership strings, having bought the 11-year-old business from founders Brock and Natalie Obee, who closed the restaurant in June after a lease dispute. Wilson, who worked at the restaurant for nearly five years and was a devoted customer before that, is promising much of the familiar when the 128 reopens, later this month or in early November. Same chef: Ian Pierce (who has been cooking at Kafé 421 in Dinkytown). Same dinner-nightly schedule. Same knotty pine decor. And much of the same menu, including the kitchen's signature ribs. "It's all food I would eat at home," said Wilson. "If I could cook."
Fame could be just an interview away. For the first time, the Food Network is conducting open auditions for "The Next Food Network Star," and Minneapolis is one of five cities where potential TV chefs can strut their stuff.
"We were looking at cities in the Midwest, and everyone always goes to Chicago, and so we thought, where else?" said casting director Jennifer Sullivan. "And Minneapolis is an up-and-coming food city."
Sullivan said she sifts through between 50 and 200 applicants per city, with speed dating-style interviews (just two to three minutes) that hopefully reveal what she described as "a big personality and a lot of cooking skills." Hook up with Sullivan and company at the Chambers Hotel (901 Hennepin Av.) on Oct. 9. For more information go to www.foodnetwork.com.

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