taste

This soup, from "Soups of Italy," is said to be from the Abruzzi region. If fresh chestnuts are not available, vacuum-packed or canned chestnuts may be substituted. Pancetta is cured, not smoked bacon.

  6 c. cold water

  1 tsp. coarse salt

  2 fresh bay leaves or 1 dried

  1 c. (7 oz.) brown or green lentils, picked over and rinsed

  3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

  3 to 4 oz. (about ²/₃ c.) diced pancetta

  4 fresh basil leaves, finely shredded

  8 oz. chestnuts, fresh roasted or vacuum-packed or canned, peeled and drained

  Pinch of thyme and marjoram

  2 tsp. tomato paste

   ²/₃ c. dry white wine

  Salt and freshly ground pepper

  4 slices country bread

Combine the water, salt, bay leaves and lentils in a heavy-bottomed soup pot. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer, covered, until tender, about 1 hour.

About 10 minutes before the lentils have finished cooking, in a separate heavy saucepan, combine the oil, pancetta and basil and saute over medium-low heat. Add the chestnuts and herbs and saute, stirring often, for 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and wine and cook until evaporated, about 10 minutes. Using a wooden spoon, stir the entire mixture into the cooked lentils and cook for 10 minutes more. If needed, add a little water and salt and pepper to taste.