A GOOD CUP

First, ditch the tea bags. Tea in bags tends to be the lowest grade of leaf, and the bags impede steeping. Buy loose-leaf tea and brew it in a pot or cup that allows for free circulation. That means no tea-ballers, either.

In China and Japan, tea drinkers use the smallest possible pot for the number of people to be served and keep a thermos of hot water handy for re-steeps. That's so they don't have to leave water standing on leaves. That can create bitterness.

For brewing greens and oolongs, I follow the example of my Japanese and Chinese tea mentors: Fill a thermos with just-boiled water. Get the teapot and cup ready. Pour some water from the thermos into the cup to warm it. Let it rest for a few seconds, then pour it over the leaves and steep according to the variety of tea and your taste preference.

TEA IN THE CITIES

La Société du Thé: Tony Ruggiero presides over this shop with old-world flair. La Société du Thé carries about 200 varieties of Chinese, Indian and Japanese teas along with teapots, cups and other accouterment. Ruggiero is an erudite guide to tea varieties and proper brewing techniques. www.teashop.us. 2708 Lyndale Av. S. in Minneapolis. 612-871-5148.

TeaSource: Lively, locally owned shops with about 250 teas, knowledgeable sales staff and a continuing slate of classes. Owner Bill Waddington will teach classes on entertaining with tea and tea basics in the next couple of weeks. www.teasource.com.

Two locations: 752 S. Cleveland Av., St. Paul, 651-690-9822.

2908 Pentagon Dr. NE., in St. Anthony at the St. Anthony Shopping Center, 612-788-4842.

Teavana: A national chain that has some interesting tea ware and accessories but which lacks the expertise or extensive selection of the locally owned options. www.teavana.com.

Two locations, one in the Mall of America in Bloomington, 952-853-9880, and one in the Shoppes at Arbor Lakes in Maple Grove, 763-493-0040.