Tria's a shadow of its sisters

Tria in North Oaks could be a lot better, but it still ranks as the best restaurant for miles around. Keep this in mind as you read all of the grumbling and grousing that follows.

By my calculation, the nearest eating establishments that are distinctly better than Tria are at least a dozen miles away in downtown St. Paul. And two of those restaurants, Pazzaluna and the St. Paul Grill, happen to be managed by Tria's creators, the Morrissey Hospitality Co.

Like its Morrissey sisters, Tria offers a stylish, upmarket ambiance, but its sensibility is more Country Classic, or at least the Calvin Klein version of it. Furnishings include antique-looking wood tables and oak ceiling beams, a roaring fireplace and heirloom dishes mounted on the walls.

The menu matches the decor: Call it slow food, call it comfort food, but whatever you call it, it's a smart blending of traditional and contemporary. Even the names evoke a bygone, rural era: Berkshire pork chop with a country sausage chanterelle stuffing; herb-roasted farm hen; apple dumpling and farmhouse cobbler, and seasonal braised or roast meats -- typically lamb or venison.

There are a few continental touches, but they are muted: a French country cassoulet and homemade Italian agnolotti pasta, stuffed with white beans and Cheddar. Presentation has a down-home feel: both the cassoulet and the lobster pot are served in enamel casserole dishes.

It's a promising concept, but it has its pitfalls. Traditional American cooking tends to be bland, heavy and full of calories, and so are some of Tria's dishes. The hot iron mussels, cooked and presented on a rustic cast-iron skillet, were tiny morsels that got their flavor from being dipped in melted butter. The woodland mushrooms appetizer arrived covered in a very rich but bland Cognac cream sauce. And the few small chunks of lobster in the very pricey ($31) lobster pot swam in a small ocean of cream.

On one visit, even the nightly fish special fit the pattern: fresh cod encased in a thick robe of fried batter, accompanied by fried potatoes and a tasty but heavy creamed leek sauce. Our dinners were accompanied by braised carrots on one visit and asparagus on the other, both cooked a little longer than currently fashionable. None of these dishes were bad, but the menu cries out for a few lighter options to add balance.

The optional side dishes (billed as "comfort dishes made for sharing") don't quite fit the bill: They range from a gratin of cauliflower or macaroni and cheese to citrus-glazed beets and roasted winter squash with maple sugar, butter and pecans.

Highlights of my visits included the risotto croquettes, filled with Cheddar cheese and accompanied by a marinara sauce; and the meaty, juicy pork chop, served with a sweet potato hash and Madeira wine sauce, which one companion proclaimed the best he had ever tasted. The hangar steak was agreeably chewy and full of flavor, but the accompanying fries were dark brown and dry. The pheasant I've had in restaurants almost always tastes like dry chicken, and Tria's was no exception, but it was saved by a savory sour cherry sauce. The cassoulet was also a respectable rendition, a bit short on duck, but with flavorful pork and sausage, and white beans cooked just au point.

Lightest of the desserts was a delightful hazelnut crème brûlée, flavored with Frangelica and sprinkled with toasted hazelnuts. Other options, like the apple dumpling with vanilla ice cream and the farmhouse cobbler, a baked pancake laced with sour cherries, were heavier but worth the calories if you aren't already too full. One very nice touch is the assortment of artisanal American and Canadian cheeses, which can be ordered at the beginning or end of the meal; these include a distinctive Amish blue cheese and a Stickney Hill chèvre produced in Kimball, Minn.

The bar menu offers the same appetizers and desserts as the dining rooms, plus the cassoulet and some lighter fare, including burgers, steak sandwiches and a mushroom omelet. It also offers one remarkable oddity: poutine Martin ($18). Poutine is the dirty little secret of Montreal gastronomy: the most popular dish in a city renowned for its culinary sophistication is a concoction made of French fries topped with cheese curds and brown gravy. I haven't tried Tria's version, which substitutes foie gras and veal gravy for the usual sauce, but I would like to.

The wine list offers an interesting selection of moderately priced bottles, plus a short reserve list of more rare -- and more expensive -- bottles. Nice touches: More than 20 wines are offered by the glass, but if you agree to buy at least two glasses, they'll open any bottle on the list priced at $80 or less. Four tasting flights ($7.75 to $9.75) offer comparison samplings of different varieties and regions. And on Sunday and Monday nights, selected bottles are half-price. A market selling soups, sandwiches, breads and all of the food on the restaurant's menu is scheduled to open in late spring.

Good restaurants have a tough time north of Hwy. 36, as can be seen by the demise of Fiddleheads and Nikko's European Bistro and the departure of Margaux Limitee. For all of its shortcomings, Tria really is the best for miles around, and with a few additions and changes, it could be a lot better.

Jeremy Iggers is at jiggers@startribune.com.