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Continued: Chanel and Armani evoke the old world and new in Paris haute couture shows

  • Article by: THOMAS ADAMSON , AP Fashion Writer
  • Last update: July 2, 2013 - 3:30 PM

The museum of sculptor Antoine Bourdelle was a magnificent backdrop for the sculptural creations conjured up by lauded Moroccan-born designer Bouchra Jarrar.

Models in ivory, pink and jet-black wandered among Bourdelles' private collection of bronze and marble figures, creating a visually dramatic scene.

Fabric woven tightly round the neck and held with silver clasps, at times, felt as carved as the marble artwork itself.

But the stronger work was found in the three-part silk dresses in pink crepe, black georgette and ivory "charmeuse." They fluttered by like butterflies.

STEPHANE ROLLAND

"Austere, but sensuous," were the words the program notes used to describe Stephane Rolland's dark and luxuriant couture display, which continued in the elegant footsteps of last season.

Deep midnight blue produced a classy silk crepe jumpsuit with a billowing black satin module that evoked the fuzzy brushstrokes of a painter.

Indeed, the Spanish royal court's master painter Diego Velazquez was one of the inspirations behind this collection.

Thirty-three creations saw Rolland using black, flowing capes to get this regal message across, as well as hanging lengths of rippling silks that conjured up the idea of nobility or time-old queenliness through the material's simple, natural luxury.

Though the collection was not ground-breaking, it confirms that the normally glitzy and glam designer, who's known for dressing red-carpet celebrities, is moving in a welcome, more elegant direction.

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Thomas Adamson can be followed at Twitter.com/ThomasAdamsonAP

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