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ROCKIN' the runway

Tom Wallace, Star Tribune

Models showed off designs by Max Lorbach.

A critical look at Voltage, the year's most raucous and edgy evening for Twin Cities fashion designers.

Last update: April 18, 2008 - 3:23 PM

Fashion and music are like peanut butter and jelly. Good on their own, but better together. The two arts converged Wednesday night at First Avenue at the fourth annual Voltage: Fashion Amplified. The sold-out event was a 31/2-hour marathon of style and sound with cleverly produced video clips introducing bands and designers. Surely, less prolonged posing and fewer overly choreographed struts could have speeded things up. Overall trends gleaned from the show's dozen headlining designers included one-piece jumpers for men and women, soft and wearable jersey fabrics and gorgeous leather clutches. For details, turn to page E10

Pomije by Jenny Olson

Olson used Marimekko fabrics mixed with high-waisted denim pants and skirts. The bold patterns on simple tees paired with jean skirts were a nice counterpoint. However, the high-waisted pants proved to be a tough style to make flattering. And one can't help but think of the current H&M line, incorporating vintage Marimekko fabrics.

Amanda Christine

This was arguably the most wearably chic collection of the event. This collection managed to be both rock 'n' roll and feminine. The pairing of form-fitting neutral designs with metal studs, cool belts and tough accessories -- including Niki English clutches -- projected a strong, modern aesthetic. A pastel leather jacket would be any rock star's dream.

STANDARD ISSUE COLLECTION by Kristina Bell

Reinventing T-shirt material inspired Bell's debut Voltage collection. The key with using this familiar and easy fabric is to make sure the end result elevates the material (as in 3.1 Phillip Lim and Katherine Gerdes). Layered looks with cutouts were the highlight. A light and bright blue dress with star cutouts was a little Yves St. Laurent and a little American Apparel.

Max Lohrbach

Lohrbach used to work at Ragstock, where he honed his eye for all things vintage. His fanciful collection was more art than streetwear. Bold stripes were used throughout, and there was a touch of lingerie influence as well. Add appliqués of an old telephone and a pineapple for a quirky, kitschy sensibility. One observer noted a green-striped onesie with a corn patch worn by a strapping lad as "the jolly green giant." Ho, ho, ho?

CALPURNIA PEACH by Ashley Wokasch, Luci Kandler

The graphic, modern and not-at-all cheesy abstract screenprints by this design duo were striking. They appeared on one-piece rompers, which aren't exactly practical for everyday or flattering on most non-models, but they looked cute on the runway. A tan baby-doll minidress with a red and hot-pink floral print on the skirt was a sophisticated standout, and a loose-fitting yellow jumper with a rough gray-and-green striped print was sleek for a one-piece. I'd love to see what Calpurnia Peach can do with a regular old T-shirt or T-shirt dress.

george moskal

At last year's Voltage, Moskal had a hit in a billowing yellow dress. This time around, he should be remembered for a deep brown (almost burgundy) strapless dress with a light-as-air mocha chiffon ruffle around the bust. It was stunning. Moskal's impressive color sense also was seen in his pairing of cherry red and deep burgundies. Though the collection didn't completely fit together as a whole, many of the individual designs demonstrated Moskal's skills for handcraft and an intuitive knack for fitting the female form.

RED SHOe CO. by Kerry Riley

Parts of Kerry Riley's collection were grown-up and sophisticated. Her opening emerald one-shoulder dress was sassy yet chic. She showed some pretty dresses with leather accessories such as holsters. However the collection didn't seem fully developed. There weren't many connecting threads in palette or style to tie the looks together.

Russell Bourrienne

Menswear at Voltage? You betcha. Bourrienne's collection at times blurred the line between masculine and feminine. Some of the crowd loved it, some of the crowd didn't fall in love with the East-meets-West concept. A great idea, but it wasn't realized in all of the ensembles. The highlight? The cool shirts surely would be a boon to a summer wardrobe.

Belle by Brianne Jones

"Urban safari" is how Jones describes her designs. Sure enough: Batiks mixed with demure plaids and leather trims were highlighted. Asymmetrical collars and bold accessories finished off the look. The collection was right on trend for this season's tribal influences. It also served as an example of good pattern mixing: Bold goes with bold. The same could also be said of the women who will be drawn to the clothes.

Katherine Gerdes

Gerdes is still experimenting with her favorite fabric -- jersey -- but with an eco-conscious twist. She's using sustainable organic cotton and bamboo. Her most striking works were white day dresses with touches of maize and brown ombré evening gowns in shades of orange or purple that she beautifully hand-dyed. Imagine going to an event in a gown that's actually a fancy tee. Plus, you can say it's by Gerdes, whose name is the most recognizable of the Twin Cities talent.

LAURA FULK

Fulk's inspiration for the show was the "Midwestern pioneer woman" mixed with her edgy punk style. With some 40 fashion shows in her repertoire, she is possibly the best show-woman in town. Her lineup featured feather crowns and exuberant headpieces. Fulk' s clothes were striking, with amazing construction and complexity. However, it was the literal interpretations of her theme (actual sacks) that would feel costume-y off the runway. A more wearable translation of her inspiration would likely appeal to the modern Laura Ingalls Wilder in us all.

SWANK DOLLAR by Annie Larson

Maybe it was the hyper MC/VL performance or maybe it was the wild hair, but Annie Larson's Swank Dollar had playful energy. Larson has an aptitude for proportion and color. Her fits were looser than her past work, and there were plenty of comfy separates. Maybe that's the idea -- she's shown she has the tailoring skills and she wants to mess with us. Clever! She described the collection as "after-dinner mints." Fresh and satisfying -- sounds about right.

For a full schedule of Minnesota Fashion Weekend events, go to www.voltagefashion amplified.com

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