Network & Nibble

Asking the folks at last week's Sample Circuit event their thoughts on the evening was not unlike compiling a Zagat entry for a seriously swell restaurant:

"Delicious food" accompanied by "really good wine" and "great service" are augmented by a "wonderful ambience" and "fun people-watching" to create a "fabulous vibe."

Tough to argue on any front, and easy to understand why Sample Circuit has engaged a sizable and eclectic following since it was launched three months ago. For $38, each attendee samples about 10 dishes, several wines and/or a cocktail, with part of the proceeds going to the local food shelf Second Harvest Heartland. Most of the early-evening soirees have been in Minneapolis, although the current run is focused on St. Paul.

"One of our big objectives was to encourage people from the suburbs to come in ... without fear of large bills, problems parking, the 'big, bad' city," said Tara Rea, a founder and organizer.

For two hours last Tuesday on the third and fourth floors of St. Paul's Il Vesco Vino restaurant, more than 100 relaxed revelers noshed on an array of Italian dishes, mixed and mingled, then departed with a bag of goodies and a big ol' smile.

"The vibe tonight is great. It's always good at these events," said Tim Toba, 27, of Blaine, attending his sixth of Sample Circuit's weekly events. "I'm into food. As long as you've got good food, I'm there. But I think a lot of people come for the company, and the food's a bonus."It's a great atmosphere," chimed in Toba's wife, Sarah. "And there's no hustling."

Indeed, while the evening's festivities included no small amount of casual networking, a lot of groups planted themselves at a table and stayed there. One regular, Mike Salovich, brought along some co-workers and other friends, who stayed anchored in a spot strategically located near the wine table.

"It's a fun way to sample a lot of different things and an excuse to go out," said Salovich, 49, of St. Paul. "And it's a catalyst to do something that I normally wouldn't have done in a nice, professional, high-quality context."

No two are remotely alike

That's pretty much what Rea, Ryan Nelson and Daniel Green had in mind when they concocted the notion of a weekly confab that would shine a spotlight on local, independently owned restaurants. It was a natural offshoot of their work with Last Chef Standing, a national online competition encompassing a dozen cities, including the Twin Cities.

Most Sample Circuit events have been at or near capacity, with crowds ranging from 85 at 20.21 to about 250 at Temple. And none of the 16 events has been alike. Some of the chefs have come out and chatted up the clientele -- the Dakota's Jack Riebel and FireLake's Paul Lynch made lasting impressions, Nelson said -- while others, including Azia's Thom Pham and 20.21's Scott Irestone, have gone a step further and attended subsequent sessions.

Circumstances, and happenstance, factor in as well. At Stella, rain showers nudged the crowd indoors. At Bar Lurcat, a few dozen people who knew nothing about the event liked what they saw, paid the fee and joined in the festivities. And the Aug. 1 gathering at Spill the Wine was cut short when the I-35W bridge collapsed a few blocks away.

Eats, drinks and merriment

The crowds are as wide-ranging as the events. Early on at Il Vesco Vino, a ravenous crew that skewed a bit toward the AARP demographic came away from the buffet with stacked plates in each hand. (Anyone who left hungry had no one to blame but him- or herself. As Barb Eytinge, 53, of Bloomington, noted, "This is a good way to go out to eat and sort of splurge without spending a ton of money.")

The average age shrunk markedly and the volume rose steadily as the evening wore on, thanks at least in part to the generous pours at the wine bar. Conviviality pervaded the room, with nary a trace of wolfiness in either the wines or the human interactions.

Like most of the samplers, Sarah Crangle, a 25-year-old law student, spent part of the evening perched in a comfortable chair and the rest meeting what she called a "comfortable, diverse crowd. It was good to have places to congregate."

That's precisely what enticed Karen Johnson, 49, of northeast Minneapolis. "It's just very warm," she said, "but with a party, upbeat feeling, a festive atmosphere.

"It's kind of like being at somebody's house for a party where you don't know a lot of people, but everybody's nice."

Bill Ward • 612-673-7643

Bill Ward • bill.ward@startribune.com