The craft coffee movement is brewing in Twin Cities

  • Article by: ERIC BEST , Special to the Star Tribune
  • Updated: June 24, 2014 - 9:21 AM

Local craft coffee makers are moving away from the typical cup of joe.


Greg Martin, at his Urban Bean shop on Lyndale Av. S., also teaches people how to prepare craft coffees. The classes are open to everyone from restaurateurs to the coffee-drinking public.

Behind an espresso machine at Black Coffee and Waffle Bar in southeast Minneapolis, Kelly Nelson crafts an espresso. He carefully weighs and grinds the locally roasted beans, then tightly tamps the grounds. To the casual coffee drinker, the process might not look all that unusual. But it is.

Nelson, Black Coffee’s project manager, and co-owners Andrew and Lisa Ply recently rebranded their shop, formerly Muddsuckers Cafe, to serve the high-end craft brews, which are picking up steam in the Twin Cities.

“People get very tunnel vision about their coffee,” said Stephanie Ratanas, director of coffee for Dogwood Coffee of Minneapolis, “and people are just coming out of it here over the past few years.”

Craft coffee makers compare the shift to the surging interest in craft beer and cocktails. The shops use different beans, equipment and techniques to focus on making an artisanal product.

“It’s about a drink especially made for you,” said Lee Carter, owner of Five Watt, a new shop in south Minneapolis. “It’s a bit of the cocktail world translating to the coffee world.”

The biggest difference between craft coffee beans and, say, Starbucks beans is flavor. The Specialty Coffee Association of America ranks coffees on a 100-point “cupping” scale based on criteria such as acidity and aroma. Starbucks and other mainstream specialty shops sell coffee at about 80 points. Craft coffee ranks 86 or higher.

While it may seem like a small difference, a jump of just a few points is substantial, said Micah Svejda, a barista turned owner of Bootstrap Coffee Roasters.

One of the key components of craft coffee is lighter roasting, which, fans argue, doesn’t cover up the bean’s flavor profile or burn the bean. And it means more caffeine.

The lighter roast also allows for a range of subtle flavors. Craft coffee drinkers can taste hints of chocolate, raspberries or even floral notes.

But the differences don’t end there. In rebranding his cafe, Andrew Ply did everything from repainting to changing the direction the espresso machine faced so baristas don’t turn their backs to customers.

Lisa Ply, who is more involved in the food at Black Coffee, said the improvements have spilled over into the other products they sell. Sales have increased, and not just because the high-end beans have resulted in higher prices. The per-cup difference typically is only a few cents on the dollar.

Finding new converts

There’s a lot of work being done to convert traditional Twin Cities coffee drinkers into craft coffee apostles.

Greg Martin, a Dogwood Coffee salesman and owner of two Urban Bean locations, is reaching new customers by introducing craft coffee in restaurants — such as Bar La Grassa and Burch Steakhouse and Pizza Bar — that are looking to upgrade their after-dinner drinks.

He teaches restaurant staffs everything from using the high-end machines to steaming milk properly. Both Dogwood and Café Imports host classes at their locations in northeast Minneapolis for the employees, sales staff and even the coffee-drinking public.

Brewing coffee might sound simple to people who just push a button on their kitchen coffee makers, but it can get complicated very quickly.

“There’s a crazy learning curve,” said Black Coffee’s Nelson. “I had no idea. It’s a lifetime deal. You can’t just read a book and master coffee.”

A slow process

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  • Coffee roaster Eddie Anderson dumps roasted beans into a cooling mixer at Dogwood Coffee, one of the Twin Cities’ premier coffee roasting companies.

  • Black Coffee and Waffle Bar in Minneapolis. ] JOELKOYAMA‚Ä¢jkoyama@startribune Minneapolis, MN on June 3, 2014. There's a coffee revolution happening in the Twin Cities. A small army of coffee shops are changing the way people think about a beverage everyone things they know all too well. We talk with coffee shops who have "converted" to the gospel of craft coffee, where light roast beans are king -- and no one adds cream or sugar. Because good coffee doesn't need condiments.

  • Lisa and Andrew Ply now serve craft coffee at Black Coffee and Waffle Bar.

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