Restaurant news: Bradstreet Craftshouse headed to Lowry Hill

  • Article by: RICK NELSON , Star Tribune
  • Updated: June 4, 2014 - 8:52 AM
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Bradstreet Craftshouse will be relocating from its current home at the Graves 601 Hotel in downtown Minneapolis later this summer.

Photo: Tom Wallace, Star Tribune

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Bradstreet Craftshouse headed to Lowry Hill

The former Rye Deli & Bar (1930 Hennepin Av. S., Mpls.) hasn’t stayed fallow for long. It’s soon to become the new home of Bradstreet Craftshouse (601 1st Av. N., Mpls., www.bradstreetcraftshouse.com).

The influential 5-year-old craft cocktail establishment will be relocating from the Graves 601 Hotel in downtown Minneapolis later this summer, when the hotel changes hands and becomes part of the Loews chain.

“With the sale of the Graves, we wanted to keep the Bradstreet brand,” said Graves Hospitality president Benjamin Graves. The hotel’s Cosmos restaurant will remain, although chef John Occhiato will continue to work for Graves, creating menus across the company’s portfolio.

The new Bradstreet should reopen by September, and Graves plans to take full advantage of the Rye site’s far roomier kitchen. “We’ll be able to expand the menu and make it a neighborhood restaurant,” he said, with a plan to serve food from happy hour through late-night daily, along with weekend brunch. To reflect the change in format, the name will change, too: Bradstreet Neighborhood Craftshouse.

The change of address will also trigger a change in tone.

“We want to move away from the snotty elitism of the cocktail world,” said Graves, noting that he’s not unaware that Bradstreet is one of the charter members of the libation world’s one percent.

“What people are drinking now is a result of that scene, but the pendulum has swung too far,” he said. “People also want to go out and get a good experience and have fun. We want to be cultivators of having a good time.”

Translation? “That whole looking-down-on-the-drink-you-want-to-order thing isn’t going to cut it any longer,” Graves said. “If you want a dirty martini, we’ll make the best dirty martini you’ve ever had, and we’ll get it to your table promptly. We’ll still have amazing cocktails, we’ll continue to have our classics. But you don’t want to go to a bar to be schooled. You want to have fun.”

When it comes to the chef, Graves isn’t naming names, but he confirms that it’s someone currently on the payroll.

Portions of the distinctive Bradstreet look — inspired by famed Minneapolis tastemaker John Scott Bradstreet (1845-1914) — will make the move, including the room’s memorable chandeliers.

“It’s not going to be identical,” said Graves. “It will have the Bradstreet vibe, but you’ll feel comfortable in jeans. It won’t be a dive bar.”

Not coincidentally, Graves lives nearby. “I’m super-excited, because what better place to do this than in my own neighborhood?” he said.

Meanwhile, the company’s first foray into downtown St. Paul dining is scheduled to open July 1. Set on the street level of the Doubletree by Hilton in Town Square, casual Rival House (411 Minnesota St.) will specialize in small plates, craft beers and pizzas crafted with locally milled flours and baked in a wood-burning oven. Pizza-on-wheels whiz Peter Campbell, owner of Red Wagon Pizza Co. (www.rdwagon.com), is consulting with chef Andy Vyskocil (a Bradstreet vet) on the lunch-and-dinner project. Also in the works: A sidewalk cafe.

At the window

First Coup d’état (2923 Girard Av. S., Mpls., www.coupdetat.com) launched its walk-up window, a late-nighter (open 11 p.m. to 2:15 a.m. Thursday through Sunday) serving munchies along the lines of pastrami sandwiches, burgers, cheese curds and fries.

Now Terzo (2221 W. 50th St., Mpls., www.broders.com) is getting into the act, with a daytime walk-up counter at a kitchen window that’s all about porchetta sandwiches, hence the name: Porchetteria at Terzo Wine Bar.

“We have this secret little window on the side of the building,” said co-owner Molly Broder. “It’s our version of a food truck.”

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