His new peacoat is stylish, as is the custom

Last update: February 29, 2008 - 11:50 AM

Rick Nelson and Claude Peck dispense unasked-for advice about clothing, relationships, grooming and more in a weekly dialogue.

RN: I don't know that I've properly gushed over that amazing winter coat of yours.

CP: Thanks, but don't get too close. I don't need spittle on it. At what it cost, I barely even like to wear the thing.

RN: So your first excursion into made-to-measure wasn't all that and more? I thought you loved it.

CP: I do, insofar as one should love an inanimate garment. It's a custom peacoat, designed by Minneapolis-based Russell Bourrienne (russellbourrienne.com).

RN: How did you find this guy?

CP: Some mutual friends brought me up to Russell's Lyn-Lake atelier on an open-studio day last fall.

RN: I imagine he was pulling out bolt after bolt of fabric, with you imperiously rejecting them with the bored flick of a wrist until you arrive at the perfect wool.

CP: Me, imperious? No, we were having a blast trying on all the fun '70s fashions on his rack. Mr. Bourrienne loves bold colors, man-made fabric and the balloon sleeve. It was like a party scene from "Cleopatra Jones," only we were white.

RN: So was it a constant stream of fittings, standing stock still for hours in your bra and panties in an airless, mirrored room, craving a Tareyton? I don't know why, but I picture you in a fitting room at Cristobal Balenciaga's maison de couture, circa 1962.

CP: More like a work table, ironing board, Nescafe, boom box and a hissing radiator. He had one peacoat finished, but it was poppy-red, and it made me look like a reject from a Talbot's ad. He had the same coat in a great heavy navy wool, about half-made and hanging on a tailor's dummy. We took it from there. Until this time, I had never discussed the sourcing of a pewter button. It was a thrill ride.

RN: I know it's tacky to talk money, but I have to ask: How much?

CP: $600.

RN: Gulp. And now you're filling your closet with made-to-measure shirts. Get you.

CP: On my recent trip to Thailand, I tagged along to Nice Fashion (no joke) in Bangkok, and they talked me into having three shirts run up. I selected the cotton, they measured me, et voila! The shirts were delivered to my hotel the next day. The designs are pretty basic, but ol' monkey-arms loves having a few shirts in the closet that fit his odd shape. We're going to get you in custom menswear one day. You'll see. Once you ditch the ready-to-wear rack, you never go back.

Click on W.G.'s weekly podcast at www.startribune.com/withering. E-mail W.G. at witheringglance@startribune.com.

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