Alma chef thanks family, local food scene after winning Beard award

Monday was a huge night for Alex Roberts, chef/owner of Restaurant Alma (528 University Av. SE., Mpls., www.restaurant alma.com). At the James Beard Foundation Awards in New York City, Roberts was named Best Chef: Midwest, an honor bestowed upon chefs working in Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, Missouri, Kansas, Nebraska and the Dakotas, "who have set new or consistent standards of excellence."

The theme at this year's Oscars of the food world was "legacy" (a nod to the awards' 20th anniversary), and in his acceptance speech, Roberts acknowledged the "training, mentorship and friendship" he received in New York as a culinary student and in the kitchens at Gramercy Tavern, Union Square Cafe and Bouley before returning home to Minneapolis to open Alma in 1999. He thanked his family (his wife, Margo, and their 3-month-old daughter, Nia Belle, were in the audience), the farmers and purveyors supplying his locavore-mind restaurants (Roberts also owns Brasa in Minneapolis and St. Paul) and the Twin Cities' "thriving local food scene."

Roberts, nominated for the fourth consecutive year, shared the category with three-time nominee Isaac Becker of 112 Eatery (112 N. 3rd St., Mpls., www.112eatery.com) and first-time nominee Lenny Russo of Heartland (1806 St. Clair Av., St. Paul, www.heartlandrestaurant. com), along with Gerard Craft of Niche in St. Louis and Colby Garrelts of bluestem in Kansas City.

Minnesota's turn at the podium wasn't over. A few moments later, Wayne Kostroski, co-owner of the Franklin Street Bakery (1020 E. Franklin Av., Mpls., www.franklinstreetbakery. com), was named the foundation's 2010 Humanitarian of the Year for his hunger-relief work with Taste of the NFL, the nonprofit he founded in 1992. "I'm so blessed for the opportunity to work in an industry that cares," he told the black-tie audience. "When there is a hand to be lent, the culinary industry is the first to step up."

As is often the case, New York City dominated the winners circle, taking Outstanding Chef (Tom Colicchio, he of Craft and "Top Chef" fame), Best New Restaurant (Marea), Outstanding Restaurateur (Keith McNally, of Balthazar, Pastis and Minetta Tavern), Best Restaurant (Daniel), Outstanding Wine Service (Jean Georges), Outstanding Restaurant Design (the Wright, the Guggenheim Museum's gorgeous new eatery) and Outstanding Graphic Design (Standard Grill).

The city didn't have a complete lock on the proceedings. Chicago's Alinea won Outstanding Service, the Rising Star Chef of the Year was awarded to Timothy Hollingsworth of the French Laundry in Yountville, Calif. and Nicole Plue of Redd, also in Yountville, was named Outstanding Pastry Chef. That last category boasted, for the first time, a Minnesota nominee: Michelle Gayer, chef/owner of the Salty Tart (920 E. Lake St., Mpls., www.saltytart.com).

At Sunday evening's media and cookbook awards, two Minnesotans were handed Beard medallions: Andrew Zimmern, host of the Travel Channel's "Bizarre Foods With Andrew Zimmern," and Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl of Minnesota Monthly. Congratulations.

RICK NELSON