Nightlife: Looking for beer in all the wrong places

Article by: TOM HORGEN , Star Tribune
Updated: January 16, 2009 - 12:05 PM

From ethnic eateries to coffee shops, here are 10 unlikely venues that have great brews on tap.

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Hai Truong, owner of Ngon Vietnamese Bistro, which features a large selection of craft beers, with a draft of Lift Bridge's Drifter Pale Ale.

Photo: David Joles, Star Tribune

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With the beer-geek revolution in full swing, you can find great beer in the most unexpected of places.

Take Ngon Vietnamese Bistro in St. Paul. When's the last time you went to a Vietnamese restaurant and found 12 local craft beers on tap? Look around the Twin Cities and you'll find even more beer anomalies -- craft beer has made its way into coffee shops, pizza parlors and your good old fine-dining neighborhood restaurant.

At many of these places, you can trace the passion for beer back to the owner. "I'm just one of those home brewers that became a restaurant owner," said Ngon's Hai Truong.

Here are 10 beer-loving destinations that might surprise you. While none is a bar in the traditional sense, each has made a commitment to draft beer, as well as a long bottle list.

Ngon Vietnamese Bistro

Draft beers: 12.

The scene: The cities' hippest Vietnamese restaurant has more taps than your average neighborhood bar. And they're all Minnesota-made (Surly, Lift Bridge, Lake Superior, more). The owner installed the bar two months ago after building it from scratch in his garage. A Twin Cities artist designed the tree sculpture that seems to grow right out of the bar and surround the taps. It alludes to the Ngon's commitment to eating -- and now drinking -- locally. You can hop on one of the vintage stools during the daily happy hour or have a beer brought to your table.

799 W. University Av., St. Paul. 651-222-3301. ngonbistro.com.

Cafe Twenty Eight

Draft beers: Three.

The scene: This Linden Hills bistro is a hotbed for Surly fans. Co-owner Linda Haug has a direct pipeline -- her husband is Surly head brewer Todd Haug. The restaurant (nestled into an old fire station) is one of the last places to have Surly's infamous Darkness brew on tap (it's almost gone). If you miss it, don't fret; the restaurant will debut new Surly drafts in the next month. If Surly isn't your thing, Haug has a star-studded list of Belgian bottles.

2724 W. 43rd St., Mpls. 612-926-2800. cafetwentyeight.com

Common Roots Cafe

Draft beers: Seven.

The scene: This place has most bagel shops beat. Skip the coffee when ordering a bagel because Common Roots has beer. Like most everything here, its seven taps are all local (including Surly, Flat Earth and Summit). You can get them for $3 during the 3-6 p.m. happy hour, which runs every day.

2558 Lyndale Av. S., Mpls. 612-871-2360. commonrootscafe.com.

Lucia's Wine Bar

Draft beers: Three.

The scene: This Uptown staple might not have the most taps, but its busy wine bar has been committed to craft beer longer than most. The bar's menu offers the same gourmet ingredients as the main restaurant, but its price points are much lower. The food, like Jojo potatoes with French sea salt and plum ketchup, pairs nicely with the assortment of Belgian beers. A late-night happy hour runs from 9 p.m. to midnight.

1432 W. 31st St., Mpls. 612-825-1572. lucias.com.

Corner Table

Draft beers: Three.

The scene: In this south Minneapolis neighborhood restaurant, chef Scott Pampuch matches his fine dining menu with a small but impressive beer list (everything from Wisconsin's Rush River to hard-hitting Belgians such as Triple Karmelite). He's upping his beer game in February with the debut of monthly beer dinners (like wine pairings, but with beer). They'll happen the second Thursday of each month. If you're just stopping in for a beer, try an off-night when you're sure to get a seat at the small bar.

4257 Nicollet Av. S., Mpls. 612-823-0011. cornertablerestaurant.com.

Sapor

Draft beers: Two.

The scene: People often forget about this North Loop restaurant. They shouldn't. Beer gets the royal treatment in the comfy bar area, which overlooks Washington Avenue through large windows. Beer is usually served in proper glassware (you know, those fancy goblets) and the bar menu is a step above (hanger steak sandwiches, falafel pitas, fancy fish tacos).

428 Washington Av. N., Mpls. 612-375-1971. saporcafe.com.

Duplex

Draft beers: Three.

The scene: A top date spot for Uptown dwellers, this refitted duplex (hence the name) has an amazing bottle selection to go with its three drafts. Duplex offers a late-night happy hour every night of the week.

2516 Hennepin Av. S., Mpls. 612-381-0700. duplexmpls.com.

Black Sheep Coal Fired Pizza

Draft beers: Four.

The scene: This underground, beer-loving pizzeria opened in October (also in the North Loop) and has been a hot spot ever since. The pizza is coal-fired (apparently a first in the Twin Cities). And the beer is above-grade, too, with four craft brews on tap and a wide range of bottles.

600 Washington Av. N., Mpls. 612-342-2625. blacksheeppizza.com.

Sen Yai Sen Lek

Draft beers: Three.

The scene: When news spread of this stylish Thai restaurant opening on Central Avenue, many Northeasters were happy -- and even happier when they found out it had a small bar. The beer list -- half Minnesotan, half Asian -- was tailor-made for this new Northeast staple.

2422 Central Av. NE., Mpls. 612-781-3046. senyai-senlek.com.

Java J's

Draft beers: Four.

The scene: There must be a lot of beer lovers in the North Loop condos, because here's another great spot. On weekends, this coffee shop turns into a vibrant scene. From its small bar you can try a tap beer or dig into its surprisingly deep bottle list.

700 Washington Av. N., Mpls. 612-236-9444. javajason.com.

thorgen@startribune.com • 612-673-7909

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