There's a lot of mediocre pinot grigio/gris out there, but most Oregon offerings are stellar. The Raptor Ridge Willamette Valley Pinot Gris ($19) is beautifully balanced, somehow both silky and tingly in texture and laden with an array of fruit flavors. There are jolts of firm but friendly acidity that not only push the fruit but make this a dinnertime favorite. I can't imagine a seafood dish, from garlicky shrimp to grilled salmon, that wouldn't cozy right up to this beauty. Available at Skol, Buffalo muni, Byerly's/Lunds, Thomas Liquors and elsewhere.
BILL WARD
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