eat + drink

The new Bella in Blaine is the best restaurant for miles around.

Unfortunately, that isn't saying much.

Locating Bella in the northern suburbs was a very smart move. If you covered a map of the metro area with red dots for all the fine-dining restaurants, downtown Minneapolis would look like a bad case of measles. Uptown Minneapolis, downtown St. Paul and Stillwater would have smaller clusters, with a few more red dots scattered from Robbinsdale and northeast Minneapolis to Prior Lake, Edina and Lakeville. But the whole northern half of the metro area would be virtually blank.

Designed by Shea architects, Bella has the same kind of striking good looks as its sister restaurant, Bellanotte, in downtown Minneapolis: lots of earthtones and fieldstone, a blazing fireplace, sensuous curves, cozy wrap-around booths and romantic lighting. Like Bellanotte, it has a lively bar scene, with a DJ on hand after 8 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday.

The menu, virtually identical to Bellanotte's, offers typical Italian fare. Appetizers range from steamed mussels and bruschetta to eggplant Parmesan and mozzarella wrapped in prosciutto. A handful of pizzas and flatbreads is offered, along with a big selection of pastas, traditional Italian chicken and veal entrees, and half a dozen grilled steaks and pork dishes. Fish entrees, which change frequently, are listed on a separate table card.

The food is adequate, mostly. Highlights of my three recent visits included the paper-thin beef carpaccio topped with field greens, and the sapori Italiani, a chunk of fresh mozzarella wrapped in prosciutto and drizzled with a balsamic dressing. The fagioli (bean) soup was hearty and flavorful, and the pizza Bella, topped with grilled chicken, artichoke hearts and feta cheese had a crisp crust and robust flavors. And most of the desserts were excellent.

But many other dishes were disappointing: the eggplant Parmesan was heavy and soggy, the steamed mussels soggy, the flatbread Napoleon a bore. And the tuna tartare was a joke: a martini glass filled with greens, with a shallow layer of unseasoned raw fish on top.

We didn't do much better with the pastas and entrees. One dining companion, who works in the food industry, thought she might have seen her lobster ravioli -- or something similar -- at Costco for a lot less than $24.95. I've had livelier clam sauce from a can than Bella's skimpy version, and I find it hard to believe that the linguine was "fresh" -- i.e., made from scratch.

The breast of chicken, stuffed with hazelnuts and pesto, and the hazelnut-crusted mahi mahi actually tasted a bit like each other: Both were dry, and neither had much flavor. Same goes for the walleye. But the accompanying linguine with sun-dried tomatoes and olives (with the chicken) and creamy skin-on mashed potatoes (with the mahi mahi) were both excellent.

My pork tenderloin was a bit dry, and the accompanying lemon-herb risotto tasted like a commercial flavor base. Bella's signature steak, a 10-ounce tenderloin garnished with crabmeat, wasn't as tender or as juicy as it could have been, especially for the "market" price ($42.95). (None of the steaks or fish entrees have listed prices; better ask, or you may be in for a surprise.) Best of the entrees I sampled was the chicken Marsala, though the "wild" mushroom sauce didn't quite live up to its billing.

Desserts are a strong suit. The molten chocolate Bella cake is a chocoholic's dream, while the cheesecake, crème brûlée and tiramisu are all standard renditions, perfectly executed.

Service varied from clueless to adequate. One bubbly young server was so enthusiastic about the food that she didn't pick up on how dissatisfied we were. A manager did better: When we said the food was "just OK," he asked what was wrong and offered a complimentary dessert.

All that grumbling aside, one fact remains: If you are looking for upscale dining in the north metro, Bella is the best restaurant for miles around.

Hours: Lunch weekdays 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Saturday 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., Sunday brunch 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Dinner Monday through Thursday 5 p.m. to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5 p.m. to midnight, Sunday 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.

Atmosphere: Sophisticated suburban style, designed by Shea architects.

Sound level: Moderate for dinner. Noisier later and near the bar.

Recommended dishes: Sapori Italiani, pizza Bella, most desserts.

Price range: Dinner $14.95 to $42.95.