Target Lounge: A looky space with sophisticated offerings

Last update: September 20, 2006 - 6:07 PM

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TARGET LOUNGE

3 out of 4 stars

Hours: 11:30 to 2 a.m. daily; raw bar open 5 p.m. through intermission daily.

Service: Personable and accommodating.

Sound level:Conversation-friendly.

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If the Design Within Reach catalog ran a bar, it probably would resemble the Target Lounge.

Tucked into the lower floor of the Guthrie's skyway to nowhere, the long, looky space is a stretch of low-slung sofas and tables that culminates in a semicircular bar. Post-sunset, the lighting turns dim and seductive, particularly as the nearby Gold Medal Flour sign blinks its nostalgic neon message through dramatic mirror-framed windows, transporting cocktailers into a contemporary Edward Hopper painting. Toss in a requisite visit to the theater's thrilling outdoor terrace, and I'm hard pressed to name a more appealing Twin Cities first-date destination.

Don't expect pretzels, hot dogs and other snack-canyon fare associated with the big bull's-eye. Instead, Russo prepares a few sophisticated raw bar offerings ($6 to $10) that are off-the-charts delicious. A jaunty Dijon sauce puts just the right spin on velvety, crimson shears of tuna tightly rolled around intricately chopped vegetables. Sweet and snappy poached prawns share a plate with a gutsy horseradish sauce. A cool ceviche packs a spicy punch. There's a thoughtfully composed cheese plate and spicy-salty Marcona almonds.

My sole complaint is brevity, and not just the too-short menu. Can you call a wine list a list when there are just five choices? And no dessert, not even a little chocolate? The sleek setting is an automatic after-dark magnet (and no ticket required, as all Guthrie dining venues are open to the public). It would be great if the kitchen gave visitors a few more reasons to stay.

RICK NELSON

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