eat + drink

At first glance, it looks as if a counter-service deli is a long way from the kitchens of La Belle Vie, D'Amico Cucina, Restaurant Alma and jP American Bistro, at least for Michael Ryan and Matthew Bickford. But take a chomp out of their pastrami sandwich and you'll immediately know that the skill sets they acquired in those high-end shops will serve them very well at their new Be'wiched.

Richly seasoned and lean as a triathlete, that gorgeous, wickedly addicting pastrami is piled high on a fine rye, dressed with sharply pickled cabbage and then swiped with a mustard that's definitely no wallflower. The price tag might stop the Jimmy John's set -- a regular is $9.50, and a double shot of beef is another four bucks -- but considering the standout quality (and the portion size), it's almost a bargain.

Ryan and Bickford apply their fine-dining education to nearly a dozen sandwiches ($6.50 to $9.50). There's roast beef and a yin-yang blend of sweet onions and blazing horseradish, freshly smoked turkey topped with goat cheese and rich dates, a veggie burger built with beets and stuffed into a fine onion bun, spicy pulled pork finished with crunchy coleslaw, and more, all prepared with an exceptional attention to detail. Ditto the selection of prepared and made-to-order salads ($3.50 to $7), starting with a don't-miss Caesar popping with anchovy and a blend of couscous tossed with tender cooked greens. The simple desserts include a dizzyingly moist orange-scented brownie, a homey chocolate-caramel tart and big, buttery cookies. Bright colors make the sunny room even cheerier, and beer and wine reportedly are on the way.

RICK NELSON