books

Scott Schuman is often described as a fashion photographer, but he sees what he does as more social commentary than trend-reliant. While he clearly gravitates toward the high-fashion scenes of Paris, Milan and New York, Schuman is more interested in the way people he passes on the street choose to combine, accessorize and adapt pieces of clothing to their own particular tastes. His substance-behind-the-style approach produces fascinating portraits of people you'd like to know more about.

"On the surface it's about fashion, but when you really look at someone, it's also a window into that person's life," said Manhattan-based Schuman, whose blog The Sartorialist (thesartorialist.blogspot.com), where he posts his shots of eye-catching dressers from around the globe, has become a significant influence among fashionistas. Several hundred of these images have been collected in a book released last week, "The Sartorialist" (Penguin, $25). Schuman won't be attending a book party being thrown at Magers & Quinn Sunday, but he answered some questions in advance.

Q You grew up in Indianapolis, not exactly a style hub. Did you develop an early eye for fashion and design, or did it come later?

A I think it came late. The lack of fashion actually helped me. I could create my own romantic idea of what that romantic fashion world was like, and we didn't have the Internet yet, so there was no proof to show it wasn't really like that. I've been able to hold on to those ideas, and I try not to get too close to the people I shoot so I can capture and keep what I find romantic about their looks without knowing too much.

Q Why do people conflicted about who they are often make better fashion statements than people who aren't?

A When people decide "This is who I am," they spend most of their time saying "No, that's not me" about this or that look. Young people more often have a great sense of style because they haven't figured themselves out yet. "Am I a goth musician or a football player?" Probably a bit of both. And then they come up with this great odd combo of self- expression.

Q You mention "visual greed" in the book. What's that?

A Visual greed is a positive thing. It's about picking up on a detail or other aspect of someone's outfit and figuring out how you can adopt it or incorporate it. It's the opposite of Joan Rivers recapping Oscars outfits and saying what she does and doesn't like. I don't care what other people are wearing. It's not up to them to impress me, it's up to me to get something out of whatever stimulus they're providing. A lot of times people feel that fashion is about being better than someone else, about grading good or bad. I rarely like a whole look that I shoot, just certain elements, like the shoes or socks or no socks. I'm exclusive and judgmental, but in a way I'm also inclusive, because I'm open to a lot of different stimuli, from the young, the old, different cultures different genres.

Q Earlier this week, there was some TV chatter over whether First Lady Michelle Obama should wear shorts. What do you think of her style choices, and the president's?

A They mean nothing to me. I would never grade a politician on style. It's a nonfactor.

Q You rarely focus on celebrities, so why do you turn your camera on Kanye West so often?

A He's another guy from the Midwest, middle-class Chicago. I relate to his naked ambition and drive. In the Midwest we're culturally trained to show no outward sign of wanting something badly, to not let anyone see you trying or caring about how you look. When Kanye first started making money, his look wasn't fine-tuned. I've seen an evolution in him, he's toned down and is finding his place. I know what that's like. I was buying Armani in the early '90s when I started to make money, but after awhile the name on the label is less important than how it made me feel. You can buy a lot of clothes but you can't buy style.

Q You have two daughters, ages 7 and 10. What have you noticed about their developing personal style?

A I ask them if they want help putting outfits together and they say no, which they have for a while now. I tell them that some people might like my help, and they say, "Well, you don't go to our school." It could be big in Paris, but unless it's happening at their school, they don't care. I was a stay-at-home dad for two years and I learned to buy them not a lot of clothes, but good clothes that work together so they can put things together themselves. If they grow up and have no interest in style, that's fine with me.

Q What's your style?

A A cross between old-school Italian and the sportier part of Ralph Lauren. I really like tailored, but I'm outside all the time, running around, so I don't need a lot of suits. I need great outerwear and shorts. I like a $25 pair of shorts I don't have to worry about, and Chuck Taylors. It's all about the color combinations and how you roll the sleeves.

Kristin Tillotson • 612-673-7046