Cheers (and a few jeers) for the Winterfest 2012 beers

So much for this being a lighter than usual winter. Friday night's 11th annual Winterfest beer showcase, presented by the Minnesota Craft Brewers Guild at the Minnesota History Center in downtown St. Paul, was as dark and heavy as one of Surly brewmaster Todd Haug's favorite black-metal bands.

The cultish success of Surly's Darkness—and, to a lesser extent, its Coffee Bender -- appears to have inspired a lot of similar brews around the state (unlike the guild's Autumn Brew Review, Winterfest is exclusive to Minnesota brewers). Granted, Surly hardly invented the Russian Imperial Stouts and other wintertime beers that have always been the crux of Friday's event. But theirs were the beers that most attendees were comparing all the others to.

Even more noteworthy, the number of Winterfest participants continues to rise sharply. There were a record eight new companies featured at the sold-out event. Truly a case of the more, the merrier.

In Darkness' shadow: The Herkimer Pub got into the dark business with its usual German twist via the Big Bottom Doppelsticke, an 11 percent Imperial Alt Bier that was thick on flavor. Minnetonka-based newcomer Lucid served an impressive Russian Imperial Stout with an oak tint called the Czar. Rock Bottom Brewery offered a slightly lighter, 8.5 percent RIS called the Dork Lord of Dorkness that didn't wimp out flavor-wise. And, for solid proof that Surly didn't bring the darks to light alone, Barley John's Brewpub (of New Brighton) once again earned the most votes among attendees for best beer with its classic Dark Knight.

Heckuva lotta java: Coffee-infused beers were everywhere, too. Two of the best were served by Lucan-based Brau Brothers, including the all-organic and lightly chocolatey Cherrybean Coffee Stout and the über-caffeinated and ultra-dark Great Coffee Stout. Vadnais Heights cannery Big Wood's Morning Wood coffee stout was once again a hit. And on the wilder side, Harriet Brewing shined with its way-dark spin on its doppelbock, the Dogwood Coffee-Fruit Elevator.

Absolute wickedest beer: The Herkimer Pub's Triple Bock was triply potent, coming in at 23% alcohol. You wouldn't have known it was so wicked, though, thanks to the truly unheard of balance between a Japanese Sake yeast (the Herkimer crew also owns Moto-I) and a dark cocoa body, resulting in a lightly sweet but brawny wine flavor.

What's for desert?: St. Paul's Flat Earth Brewing served a decadent cheesecake-flavored porter called Dreamline that I've been dreaming about trying again. Lucid's oak-aged double red Duce had a rich caramel flavor that wasn't too sweet, thanks to a healthy balance of hops. And Lift Bridge's vanilla and toasted oak update of its Chestnut Hill brown ale was a real treat.

Tasty twists on old favorites: Already a great summer beer, Lift Bridge's Farm Girl Saison was made all the sunnier infused with blueberries. Brau Brothers also somehow pulled off a wonderfully hopped-up version of its Moojoos Oatmeal Milk Stout called the Hoppin' Cow.

Misfires: Kudos to Fulton for trying to spike some Vitamin C into our sun-starved lives, but the orange-infused versions of both the Lovely Blonde and Sweet Child of Vine spoiled the otherwise excellent beers. Lift Bridge also made a bold choice that didn't pay off with its Maple Bacon RIS, more sweet than it was meaty and surprisingly flat on flavor.

Don't forget the hops: Town Hall Brewery, which still works more hoppy magic than anybody else in the state (and was the most voted-for brewery Friday), had two excellent hop-heavy brews, the crisp and 8.5 percent Double Lager and a strong American pale called 342, named after the experimental line of hops that one of its hop farms is testing. I'd say it passed. Fitger's was pushing a new-ish hoppy brew called Duluth Pale Ale that belied its generic name.

Two newcomers also served some refreshingly different hop-headed beers: Third Street Brewing (an offshoot of the Cold Spring Brewery) had a surprisingly bold brand called the Bitter Neighbor Dark IPA; and Stillwater's Staples Mill could make a name for itself with its Larry's Red Wheat, at once a light wheat beer with a red body and a nice pale ale hoppiness.

Best newcomers: Along with the already oft-mentioned Lucid, Castle Danger Brewery was my favorite. You can't beat its location, just an agate's throw from Gooseberry Falls along the North Shore. I loved how I could imagine the setting in the flavor of their beers, particularly the woodsy Nordic, a rye lager with juniper berry and honey flavor. Its George Hunter Stout also would go well with flannel.

Kudos should also go to two other newcomers for going against the grain and serving their own unique brews: Mankato Brewery did its town's German heritage proud with the light but hearty, top-fermented Mankato Original; and Minneapolis' Boom Island is off to a great start with its lightly spiced, biscuity Silvius Pale Ale. Can't wait to see what these and the other six newbies come back with next Winterfest.