The Romanesque rock at 6th St. and Hennepin Av. in downtown Minneapolis seems a forbidding castle at first glance. It was intended that way, built in 1889 as a Masonic temple with spacious rooms where lodges could hold their esoteric gatherings.

But some of the Twin Cities' better-known entertainment this very season will emanate from the eight-story fortress, in choral concerts (Minnesota Chorale's "Messiah"), dance (Minnesota Dance Theatre's "Nutcracker") and theater (Miss Richfield 1981's "Coo Coo for Christmas!").

As thousands of people pass by this intersection -- near the crossroads of bus, train, auto and foot traffic -- up to 300 performing artists slip behind these sandstone walls to practice their craft.

Three decades ago, however, the squat structure's future seemed quite fragile. Originally, the building had retail on the first floor, with six floors used by 11 Masonic lodges, and an eighth-floor ballroom. It was sold and renamed the Merchandise Building in 1947, but by the 1970s, it was 90 percent vacant.

Enter Minnesota Dance Theatre, which had occupied two other Masonic temples in southeast Minneapolis and was looking for a new home. With MDT's move to Hennepin Avenue 30 years ago, civic do-gooders decided to double down, purchasing the grande dame for $500,000 and revamping it into a full-fledged arts center.

"It is the free-span open space in these Masonic temples that's so remarkable," said Lise Houlton, MDT's artistic director. "It's hard to find this in more modern architecture."

More than 20 organizations, which reach audiences of more than 100,000 annually, now call the Hennepin Center home. They include James Sewell Ballet and Zenon Dance -- both nationally known players. The popular hits "Church Basement Ladies" and "How to Talk Minnesotan" were developed in the second-floor offices of Troupe America. The Minnesota Fringe Festival, Greater Twin Cities Youth Symphonies and National Lutheran Choir are among the groups who share space -- in vintage office suites, or grand rooms once occupied by lodges.

When the center opened in 1979, Joan Mondale spoke and optimism ruled the day. The project had ballooned to $4.75 million, but supporters envisioned it as a spark to a renaissance on Hennepin. In reality, it has been no more a catalyst than Block E or City Center.

Only Illusion presents shows in the building on a regular basis, but Artspace Projects, which purchased the temple in 1994, hopes to change that. The group moved the old Shubert Theatre next door with plans to renovate it and link the two buildings as a locus for dance audiences. The Shubert project might break ground next year.

Graydon Royce • 612-673-7299