I am a bit anal about noises and squeaks, so it is really annoying. Upon inspection, the dealer found that the strut plates are worn, causing the problem. The struts are fine, but they want to replace the plates and struts for about $1,200. An independent shop said they could replace the plates only for $500. How can I be assured that this is the problem before making the investment of changing the plates? Is there any reason to replace the struts at the same time if they are just fine now?
Updated: May 18, 2012, - 05:43 PM
A Is the transmission failing to engage overdrive? Or failing to lock up the torque converter clutch? Start with the simple possibilities. Any of the following could cause either of these issues: a faulty thermostat preventing the engine from reaching full operating temperature, a faulty or disconnected coolant temperature sensor or a faulty or disconnected vehicle speed sensor.
Updated: May 11, 2012, - 05:23 PM
The front pads and rotors were replaced about a month ago, but the amount of dust does not seem to be decreasing with use.
Updated: May 04, 2012, - 04:10 PM
With two oil and filter changes per year, the additional cost for synthetic oil is nominal and insignificant in the overall total cost of owning, operating, fueling, maintaining, repairing, licensing and depreciating the automobile.
Updated: April 27, 2012, - 03:47 PM
No steam appears when the engine is overheating, so I assume the radiator cap and hoses are not leaking. What tests I can do to rule out the simple problems like a worn radiator cap, malfunctioning thermostat, plugged radiator, or air in the cooling system? Your advice is greatly appreciated.
Updated: April 20, 2012, - 04:08 PM
His sister is looking for a 2004 or 2005 Toyota RAV4, but she will not look at one with more than 40,000 miles. She is convinced that the lower the miles, the more desirable the vehicle, no matter what.
Updated: April 13, 2012, - 03:56 PM
The low mileage would seem to indicate infrequent use or short trips -- both of which can promote condensation inside an engine. Other potential causes are low engine operating temperature, a blocked positive crankcase ventilation system or a failed temperature regulator thermal vacuum valve, which is designed to preheat incoming induction air.
Updated: April 06, 2012, - 03:46 PM
A Perhaps the shop can connect a data recorder to the diagnostic link and have you drive the car until it stalls. They may be able to download the data at the time the engine stalls and determine the cause of the shutdown.
Updated: March 30, 2012, - 06:44 PM
Operate your vehicle on the lowest-octane fuel that provides good performance, driveability and fuel economy. Any additional octane is unnecessary and a waste of money.
Updated: March 23, 2012, - 03:37 PM