Willie's Wine Bar tries hard

Robert Browning probably didn't have Willie's Wine Bar in mind when he wrote, "A man's reach should exceed his grasp; or what's a heaven for?" As a matter of fact, he couldn't have had Willie's in mind, since the ambitious new restaurant and wine bar at 11th St. and Harmon Place in downtown Minneapolis has been open only a couple of months, and the British romantic poet died in 1889.

But the saying fits: Willie's aims high, and though it doesn't always live up to its aim, it has a lot of promise. How ambitious? An ad for Willie's in a local weekly asks, "Is it possible that the best cuisine in the Twin Cities is actually from the newest wine bar in Minneapolis?"

There's no harm in asking, but the answer is, no, at least not yet.

Willie's does go the extra mile: Every wine bar offers wines by the glass, but Willie's offers more than 50 (and many more by the bottle), with your choice of a 2- or 5-ounce pour, and with six shapes of Riedel stemware from Austria.

Choices range from a tasting of Beringer white zinfandel for $2.10 to a 5-ounce pour of Guigal Cote Roti for $24.50. The six shapes of stemware are chosen to best bring out the characteristics of different varietals, by directing different flavor and aroma components to different regions of the nose and palate. Or at least, that's the theory. (Willie's will have a tasting event using Riedel stemware May 23; for $79 you get to sample six selected wines in four Riedel Vinum lead crystal glasses (and keep the glasses). Appetizers will be served; contact the restaurant for details.)

The main menu is built around small plates, mostly in the $7 to $10 range. These are indeed small by Midwestern standards, but comparable to the primi and secondi courses you might be served at a restaurant in Italy. For example, small plates include two small lamb chops with a savory light broth, or a course of two large sautéed scallops with a small rice cake. (Chef Bruno Oakman was previously executive chef at Pazzaluna in St. Paul, which may be where he got his continental approach to portion size. )

I was delighted with most of the dishes I sampled. The salad of golden beets with frisée, bacon, goat cheese and truffle oil was an artful arrangement, with a lively combination of flavors and textures. Oakman reinvents the tired Caesar salad (and not a moment too soon) as lightly braised spears of romaine, flavored with grana padano cheese, egg yolk, sunflower seed and fresh anchovy. I had mixed luck with the pizzas: The ham and pineapple-topped pizza was rather limp, but a version topped with asparagus, garlic, red onion and brie was crustier and more satisfying.

Best of the second courses included the salmon with spinach and garlic in a creamy brie sauce, the two succulent scallops, the pair of baby lamb chops in a light coconut milk sauce, and the sirloin steak, done to medium-rare perfection and served in slices with arugula and a parsnip purée.

There were a few dishes that missed the mark. A cold buttermilk asparagus soup with almond foam was surprisingly bland and thin, and the mussels were badly overcooked. A plate of cold cuts included prosciutto, which is a fine idea, and slices of cold chorizo and kielbasa, which taste much better hot. (The problem was compounded by the fact that somebody [either the cook or the server] forgot the crostini that were supposed to accompany the meats.) The bread, whole-grain with a soft crust, was boring.

Be sure to save room for dessert. The best of these include a sublime olive oil cake with a rosemary blood-orange sorbet and a hint of truffle oil, and a light and delicate panna cotta topped with broiled grapefruit and a Riesling sauce. Ice creams and sorbets from Sonny's are also served.

In addition to the small-plate menu served for lunch and dinner, Willie's offers a weekend brunch menu that ranges from waffles and quiche to eggs Benedict, omelets and a few selections from the small plate menu, including the sirloin, trout and steamed mussels. Our server was well-intentioned but inexperienced, and seemed to have more tables than she could cover.

Willie's opens early in the morning for pastries, coffee and tea. They are as fanatical about their coffees as they are about wine, offering a choice of espresso, cappuccino, French-pressed or, for true connoisseurs, drip coffee made in a Chemex carafe.

Willie's does try to reach for the stars. Awarding three of them might be a bit generous, given the occasional shortcomings of the cuisine and service, but with a little effort, they are well within reach.

Hours: Food served Monday and Tuesday 7 a.m. to 11 p.m., Wednesday through Friday 7 a.m. to midnight; Saturday 8 a.m. to 1 a.m., and Sunday 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Brunch served Saturday and Sunday 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Atmosphere: Urban contemporary: Blue floor, pale yellow walls, designer lighting, original art.

Sound level: Soft background jazz, with live music Thursday through Saturday evenings. Charmin Michelle sings at Sunday brunches during May.

Recommended dishes: Beet salad, romaine salad, salmon, lamb, olive oil cake.

Price range: Soups and salads $4 to $9, small plates $7 to $10.

Jeremy Iggers • 612-673-4524