Restaurant review: Duplex

The world would certainly be a better place if more people asked themselves the question, "What can I do today to make Jeremy Iggers, restaurant critic for the Star Tribune, a happy guy?"

At least, it would be a better place for me.

I'm not claiming that the owners of duplex, the intimate new Uptown dining spot, actually designed their restaurant with me in mind, but they definitely pushed all the right buttons.

Romantic setting? Check.

Reasonable prices? Check.

Imaginative cuisine? Check.

Friendly, polished service? Check.

The former Pandora's Cup coffeehouse has been transformed into an intimate, charming bistro and wine bar, with valentine-red walls that look deeper by candlelight, and simple butcherblock tabletops decorated with fresh-cut flowers. (There is an inevitable tradeoff for the romantic lighting: My companion-for-life looked ravishing, but the beautifully presented dishes, such as the composed red-and-gold beet soup with green sweet pea purée, lose some of their radiance in the semidarkness.)

On two of our visits, our dinners began with a generous amuse-bouche, an appetizer compliments of the kitchen, of gravlax filled with a bearnaise mousse, garnished with orange zest and a splash of citrus oil. The four appetizers, all priced at $8, range from a potato crab croquette encrusted with black and white sesame seeds, to a lightly crusted eggplant and mozzarella Monte Cristo, served on a bright red tomato coulis and topped with a purple olive tapenade. Our favorite of these was a skewer of large shrimp and cherry tomatoes, served over a lick-the-plate-clean Champagne-saffron cream sauce.

Three salads are offered, all priced at $7, including a roasted garlic Caesar (with anchovy), a grilled radicchio salad with a winter slaw of jicama, carrot, beet, turnip, parsnip and blue cheese, and a simple salad of field greens tossed with duck confit, candied orange zest and a truffled Sherry vinaigrette.

Four of the entrees, priced at $10, are billed as small courses, but that is misleading: Except for the steamed mussels (which are wonderful), all are large enough to serve as entrees. These include tender potato gnocchi with a savory lamb ragu; fettuccine Marsala tossed with chicken, shiitakes, rosemary, garlic and pancetta, and a wild rice porcini mushroom risotto. I thought the last lacked the chewy texture of a perfectly executed risotto, but my wife didn't care -- she loved the combination of mushrooms, sweet peas, pearl onions and winter vegetables.

My favorites among the four entrees ($15) were roulades of salmon wrapped around spinach and garlic , bathed in Bearnaise; and the bison l'allemande, which turns out to be a fancy name for Salisbury steak -- a bit chewy, but not tough, and flavored with shittakes and a hint of foie gras.

The boneless duck breast with orange glaze, braised cabbage and carrots was boneless, skinless and maybe just a touch too salty, but still a pleasant dish. One of chef Michael Hart's nightly specials deserves mention: a crisp spring roll filled with smoked catfish and cellophane noodles, served with baby bok choy and sweet potato in a mango coconut curry.

The wine list offers a good selection of drinkable bottles for under $30, with wines by the glass available in 3-ounce ($3 to $5.50) and 5-ounce ($5 to $9) sizes.

Save room for the desserts, which are terrific, including a strawberry bread pudding (ingredients vary) with blueberry coulis; a fresh fruit bowl with crème Anglaise and chocolate shavings, and a chocolate mousse parfait topped with toasted hazelnut pralines and lots of whipped cream.

Location: 2516 Hennepin Av. S., Minneapolis, 612-381-0700.

Hours: Dinner menu served nightly 5 to 11 p.m. Late-night menu served at least until midnight Friday and Saturday, and on other nights when later if demand warrants.

Atmosphere: Romantic bistro.

Sound level: Soft jazz in the background; currently quiet, but crowds may raise the decibel level.

Recommended dishes: Shrimp skewer, potato gnocchi, salmon roulade, bison a l'allemande.

Price range: Appetizers $8, soups $5, salads $7, small courses $10, entrees $15, nightly specials $21 to $25.