Midtown Global Market: Global indulgence, indeed

I'm not sure who came up with the idea for the Midtown Global Market, but those responsible have my eternal gratitude.

Never been? Get with the program. Here's the 411: The first floor of a former -- and mammoth -- Sears store has been reinvented as a grazing ground populated by an international roster of food entrepreneurs. Prices are low, and the fast-food format means that a visit doesn't necessarily require a serious time commitment. There are several dozen vendors from which to choose (I wish there were more, but with luck that will come with time), and the variety is as impressive as it is delectable.

Sure, there are shades of a multiculti food-court, but the experience is much richer than grabbing a quick lunch among the Sbarros and Taco Bells of the world. The flavors of India, Mexico, Nepal, the Middle East, Vietnam, East Africa, the West Indies, Scandinavia and more -- as well as a host of locally produced foods -- all vividly come to life.

And it's not just for diners. A fine greengrocer, a pair of great meat markets and several other grocerlike stalls mean that the MGM is as much a destination for making dinner as eating it. Here are nine reasons for a visit to Chicago and Lake.

La Loma Tamales

For tamales fans, it doesn't get any better than this. Choose from corn (sweet with a bit of heat), chicken (tender and flavorful), pork (red and spicy). They're hot, flavorful, filling and, at $1.85 a pop, cheap; trade up to $3.20 for the house specialty, robustly seasoned chicken wrapped in a banana leaf and oh-so good. 612-870-3645, www.lalomatamales.com.

FARM IN THE MARKET

More than 40 Minnesota and Wisconsin family farms contribute their meats, poultry, dairy products, eggs and value-added products to this newly expanded stand (which now features gi-normous made-to-order deli sandwiches and prepared salads) and I have to admit that I'm a total sucker for the pickled beets from Angelica's Garden. Farmer and canner Ann Peterson turns the best of her Elmwood, Wis., farm's bounty into don't-miss grandmotherly goodness that also includes sauerkraut, refrigerator pickles and kim chee. But oh, those pickled beets. "No picnic or holiday table is complete without a jar of these tart/sweet goodies," reads the label, and it's absolutely right. 612-870-2908.

CAFÉ FINSPÅNG

Sure, the pretty open-face herring, salmon and shrimp sandwiches snare the eyes at this Scandinavian vendor. But what keeps mine there is the kringla, a wickedly buttery, flaky pastry topped with vanilla cream or raspberry preserves, a few slivered almonds and a bit of sweet glaze. $2 per slice, and worth every penny. 612-872-2462.

THE PRODUCE EXCHANGE

I love the apple selection at Ed Rabideaux's fine little greengrocery, including a number of locally grown beauties. There are tiny Chestnut Crabs (from Plum Crazy Orchard in Buffalo, Minn.), McIntoshes and Paula Reds (from Bushel & Peck in Lake City, Minn.), Cortlands from Rabideaux's Bayfield Fruit Co. in Bayfield, Wis., and gorgeous bright red Zestars (picked at Sacia Orchards in Galesville, Wis.), the crisp and marvelously sweet-tart apples -- they're a top-shelf lunchbox apple -- developed by the University of Minnesota in 1999. 612-879-0050, www.midtownproduce exchange.com.

LA SIRENA GORDA

My favorite lunch destination at the market is the place for vibrant ceviche -- and a fantastic crab cake burger -- but when I'm in the mood for an injection of unadulterated comfort food, I order the fish tacos ($6.25). On its face that sounds like a dull choice -- there are far more exciting ideas on the menu, believe me -- but it's a winner: a trio of corn tortillas piled high with tender mahi mahi, pineapple, corn and pico de gallo. A squirt of lime, a few marinated onions and a splash of salsa verde (and, for thrill seekers, a dash of owner Alfonso Menendez's incendiary hot-hot sauce) and you have a relatively light and highly satisfying meal. 612-870-0037.

GOLDEN THYME COFFEE CAFE

The colors pop out of the refrigerated case like comics in the Sunday paper: mango, peach, orange, lemon, grapefruit and a dozen or so other coolly refreshing tints -- and flavors -- of soft Italian ices, each a not-too-sweet mixture of water and fruit purée that's light-years lighter than ice cream, but still wonderfully refreshing. The friendly staff is fast with the samples, and a three-scoop sampler costs less than 3 bucks. 612-872-2373.

ANDY'S GARAGE

Finicky eaters -- the kind who would run screaming from, say, the Everest Cafe's curried goat (it's delicious, by the way) -- have a haven at this back-to-the-'50s all-American outpost. Placate them with the Andy Burger Basket (a juicy half-pound monster with cut-to-order fries and a super-creamy coleslaw) and a thick, hand-mixed malt. 612-870-1118.

PHAM'S DELI

Let's face it: There's a ton of fried food under this roof, which is why it's nice to see the amply stuffed spring rolls, filled with shrimp, cilantro, cucumber and rice noodles, a pair of them for just $3.25. 612-870-2622.

WEST INDIES SOUL FOOD

The name might deter some teetotalers, but the house-made ginger beer, which sings with ginger and lime overtones, is nonalcoholic, and marvelous. 612-870-2920.

Text By Rick Nelson • rdnelson@startribune.com //