Counter Intelligence: A tribute to Harry

Nochee's not closing, just being reborn

Last update: May 2, 2007 - 3:21 PM

A tribute to Harry

In the restaurant business, "closed for remodeling" is usually a euphemism for "out of business." Happily, that's not the case at Nochee (500 Washington Av. S., Minneapolis), where owners Dwight Bonewell and Adam Smith are reconfiguring the three-year-old restaurant and reopening it in late June as Harry's Food and Cocktails.

It's a tribute operation to Bonewell's late grandfather Harry Snyder. "He worked his whole career as a chef at some legendary St. Paul places -- the Ryan Hotel, the Lowry Hotel, the Commodore Hotel," said Bonewell. "He never had the opportunity or the wherewithal to do his own restaurant, so this is the fulfillment of his dream."

Bonewell describes the menu as "traditional American fare with a modern twist," including some of Harry's favorite dishes, from meat loaf to prime rib. "It's not going to be a suburban restaurant where you can get away with standard fare," said Bonewell. "When you're in Minneapolis, the public holds you to a higher standard."

The remade dining room will include lots of big booths, a wide-open kitchen and decorative touches like a chandelier made with Grain Belt Premium bottles. "Grain Belt was Harry's favorite way to chase a Boilermaker," Bonewell said.

Stromboli since 1982

Broders' Cucina Italiana (2308 W. 50th St., Minneapolis) is marking its 25th anniversary next week with daily 25 percent off specials, including imported and domestic meats on Monday, olive oil on Thursday, cheeses on Friday and desserts on Saturday. There's also a number of special events (most take place at the neighboring Broders' Southside Pasta Bar, 5000 Penn Av. S., reservations 612-925-3113). First up is chef Michael Rostance's eight-course wine dinner on Sunday evening ($125), a benefit for Slow Food Minnesota. Cooking classes ($40), followed by lunch, feature pasta on Tuesday and vegetables on Thursday. Graze through free samples of wine, cheese, cured meats, olive oils, vinegars and more on Saturday May 12th from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., followed by an appearance and book signing by "The Splendid Table" host Lynne Rossetto Kasper from 2 to 3 p.m.

RICK NELSON