Destination: Madeline Island, Wis.

The days are shortening, a chill is in the air -- and now is the time to visit Madeline Island, where I go every year to savor a slice of autumn in the great North Woods. Like the trees that cover it, the island shines brightest in early fall, when locals reclaim the Island Store, apple cider warms downtown shoppers, and shorebirds occupy the best beach spots. During the quick passage over, on a ferry from Bayfield, Wis., I spy bobbing sailboats, catch lake spray carried on a brisk wind, and watch with anticipation as the reds, golds and yellows of the forest come into sharp relief against a cerulean sky. The ride marks the beginning of the best kind of weekend: one meant for relaxing, reading, walking by the water and exploring the shoreline by kayak. Legend says that the watery caverns around the island hold treasure from centuries ago. The treasure that I take with me as I ferry away at the end of my stay is the memory of color and quiet, rugged locals, and a peaceful warmth that remains long after the snow begins.

Geography lesson

Madeline Island, the largest of the Apostle Islands, is 3 miles wide and 14 miles long. As the only island with regular commerce -- including hotels-- it is the most visited of all the Apostles. The resident population is about 220, but it swells to 3,000 or more during the summer. Ferryboats make the 2.6-mile trip from Bayfield, Wis., from April through December, when the lake freezes. Then locals drive over the ice -- or zoom across in a propeller-driven "wind sled."

Why go now

Blue-sky days and bug-free nights make autumn the most glorious season here. Across the water, picturesque Bayfield and its many orchards celebrate the seasonal bounty with Applefest, Oct. 7 through 9.

Getting around

People sometimes confuse Madeline with another Great Lakes destination, car-free Mackinac Island. Autos are allowed here, but a two-wheeler is a great way to experience the island. You can rent bikes and mopeds from Motion to Go (1-715-747-6585). If you navigate your own boat into an island slip or come on the ferry by foot, everything in LaPointe, the only town on the island, is within walking distance.

Checking in

Get info on renting a private cottage through the Madeline Island Chamber of Commerce (1-888-475-3386; www.madeline island.com). For an antiques-filled room, check out Woods Manor (1-800-966-3756; www. islandelegance.com). The Inn on Madeline Island has cabins, condos and rooms (1-715-747-6315; www.madisland.com). The Madeline Island Motel, near the ferry, has inexpensive rooms (1-715-747-3000).

Under the stars

Two campgrounds, Big Bay State Park and Big Bay Town Park, lie about 7 miles from LaPointe. Both offer access to the most beautiful beach on Lake Superior, a sheltered sweep of sand with pristine, warm-enough-to-swim-in waters. The state park has hiking trails and 60 campsites that can be reserved at 1-888-947-2757. The town park's 45 sites are more rustic, and available on a first-come, first-served basis.

On the water

The Apostles are best seen from the water. The chamber (see "checking in") can help with boat charters. Paddlers can test their skills with a rental from Apostle Islands Kayaks (1-715-747-3636). For a quiet canoe trip, hit the Big Bay Lagoon with a boat from Bog Lake Outfitters (1-715-747-2685).

Eating out

Restaurants are few, which is why many visitors opt to rent cabins with kitchens. Among them is Lotta's Lakeside Café (1-715-747-2033), which serves tempting gourmet fare. The Beach Club (1-715-747-3955) is a more casual option, offering a sunset view of the harbor. Families can grab pizza and burgers at Grampa Tony's (1-715-747-3911). For nightlife, enjoy a drink under the stars at Tom's Burned Down Cafe

(1-715-747-6100).

Rainy-day fun

Check out island history at the Madeline Island Historical Museum (1-715-747-2415). Or stop by the island's library, which sells used books and has computers for the Internet-deprived (1-715-747-3662).

Our little secret

At the weekend's close, it can be a long wait for the ferry. Park your car in line and dash to the Mission Hill Coffee House (1-715-747-3100) for to-go refreshments.

Getting there

Bayfield is about four hours from the Twin Cities, and the ferry ride lasts 20 minutes. Contact Madeline Island Ferry Line (1-715-747-2051; www.madferry.com) for schedules and rates.

Lesley Sauls is a freelance writer in Wisconsin.