All eyes on the sky at annual air show

At first glance, Oshkosh looks like any other medium-sized Midwestern town with a shrunken manufacturing base. So what makes this east-central Wisconsin city of 65,000 special?

Airplanes.

On any given day, visitors can see everything from restored 1920s vintage antiques to sleek jets take off and land at Wittman Field. The city is home to the 170,000-member Experimental Aircraft Association (EAA), which promotes aviation from the grass-roots level to the private pilot spectrum. Oshkosh's ever-present flying mania hits its peak in late July every year, when the weeklong AirVenture attracts pilots and aviation buffs from 75 nations.

Why go now

The 2007 AirVenture takes place July 23-29. This year, a U-2 spy plane from the Cold War era and the Goodyear blimp will be on display, as will be the new F-22 Raptor fighter jet. Daily tickets for non-EAA members are $33, with discounts for visitors under age 18. Weekly passes are $190. The price includes admission to the EAA Museum as well as nearly 1,000 workshops covering everything from how to paint your plane to a talk on flying the space shuttle.

AirVenture is widely known for the many World War II-vintage "warbirds" that are a regular part of the festivities. These old military planes put on a memorable AirVenture show every day except July 25 (Wednesday) and July 29 (Sunday).

Away from the airport

The Grand Opera House, built in 1883, hosts locally produced plays and nationally known singers and actors as well as the occasional film series. Come back in wintertime to see Jeff Cesario, a comedian who made it in Minneapolis before striking out for L.A., who puts on a "Home for the Holidays" show at the 668-seat venue. For something G-rated, check out "Rumplestiltskin" Jan. 12 (1-866-964-7263; www.grandoperahouse.org).

Best beach

Menominee Park, on the shores of 137,000-acre Lake Winnebago, has a great public beach. Beyond the sand, it has a zoo, a large play area for children, tennis courts and a 2-mile walking trail.

Museum watch

Housed in a 1908 Edwardian mansion that is itself worth viewing, the Oshkosh Public Museum features permanent exhibits relating to local wildlife and Oshkosh's past as a lumber town, plus an ever-changing lineup of special programs (1-920-236-5799; www.oshkoshmuseum.org). The Paine Art Center and Gardens, a historic estate, has its own lineup of great offerings (1-920-235-6903; www.thepaine.org).

GETTING THERE

Oshkosh is about five hours southeast of the Twin Cities. Take eastbound Interstate Hwy. 94 and pick up a state road such as Hwy. 21 for a scenic drive.

CHECKING IN

Looking for lodging at any price during AirVenture is a challenge, but there are alternatives. Many Oshkosh homeowners rent rooms and entire houses during the week. The AirVenture housing hot-line number is (1-920-235-3007). Bring a tent and cooler, as EAA offers camping and showers on the AirVenture grounds. The price is $19 a day, with a three-day minimum stay.

DINING OUT

Two Brothers Restaurant (1-920-233-9090) is open 24 hours and is the place to go for breakfast. China King (1-920-424-9988) has a popular and moderately priced buffet. In downtown Oshkosh, Pearson's Pig & Poultry (1-920- 303-6116) specializes in large servings of ribs, pulled pork, chicken and side dishes. Campers can fill their coolers with slow-smoked sausages and fresh cuts for the grill from Beck's Meats (1-920-230-3393).

Closer to the EAA grounds, West End Pizza (1-920-235-6650) and Durango's Mexican Restaurant (1-920-303-1948) are good choices.

TRAVELER'S INFO

Oshkosh Convention and Visitors Bureau: 1-877-303-9200; www.oshkoshcvb.org.

Freelance writer Al Doyle lives in Sheboygan, Wis.